As I am busily cutting and sewing lots of Ottoman Turkish clothing before coronation I thought it was a great time to create some sew alongs or cut along in this case. I know the diagrams work for some folks but others need to see the real deal in progress. Here I will share a simplified all in one cut that can be done if you want to minimize seams (due to bulk or fragility) or keep a fabric or pattern as intact as possible. We can do this with the luxury of wide fabric!
First the fabric is washed, dried, ironed, and laid out folded in half twice. I always lay mine so the front faces out because it will have extra cuts to make the front neck deeper, the front scoops on the sleeves, and a cut down the front edge.
Here is the quarter folded fabric with the body measurements marked then connected for the style lines of the garment.
Next is the fabric with the main body cut all in one piece. Then we cut the front gores to fit, the left side extends from neck to hem as wide as it can be for the fabric we have left, the right side from hip or mid chest to hem.
Both goes are laid out on top to compare sides.
Here we compare this simplified cut to the period cut from narrower fabric (this is for a smaller person but also was cut from just 2 yards of leftover silk taffeta).
Here is the full layout with the period cut, a close up of the left side front gore and a close up of the right side front gore.
Next is to sew them together with a plan for seam finishing and cut facings and lining if desired.
Measuring facing- I’m using 6″ wide here to encase front gores and cutting around the hem curve.
Second row of facing to piece together for hem.
Facings sewn on- I press my fold down while they are flat, then sew on, turn in, and hand finish. All the current machine sewing will be hidden when this is finished.