Ultralight Kirtle

Posted on January 26, 2023 by Angela

Counting this for the Historically Sew Monthly January 2022 challenge… which was an anniversary challenge celebrating 10 years to choose something from the 2013 list. This one could work for several of those: #UFO #Under it All #Peasant #Lacing #Metal #Color Challenge Green #HistoricalSewMonthly2022

The Challenge: Anniversary- January

Fabric: Two linen curtain panels from the thrift store and some cotton twill from my stash

Pattern: Drafted from my old body block (maybe 2012 eek!) with some redraping help from a friend (at a sewing gathering about 2019?) then it sat in the UFO pile for a while

Year: 16th Century

Notions: metal drapery rings, naturel linen tape for lacing and trim, matching green thread, 4 cable ties for boning

How historically accurate is it? It has a good look overall (although I’m not in love with the pull of lacing rings or the gaping at the front partly due to pandemic pounds) I also intentionally made this as a wearable mock-up to test as few layers and little boning as possible that could be thrown in the washer for wear at crazy hot events- it does work for that and is very comfortable and supportive for all day wear.

Hours to complete: Total: 30

First worn: April 2022, when I loaned it out for a Shakespeare demo, worn by me May 2022

Total cost: $12

Thanks to Shaina Cara and her casual event photos- I caught her eyeing me so struck a “fete at bermondsey” pose 😉 ie my favorite painting showing a span of classes and clothes and behavior all in a crowd together!

Marcus Gheeraerts the Elder – Festival at Bermondsey- 1571 public domain

Rose and Gold Greek

Posted on November 7, 2017 by Angela

Gold and Rose Greek-

A peplos fashioned from a vintage silk sari- something I have meant to do for a while but ended up being far more complicated than it should… this involved lots of cutting and piecing to get the borders where I wanted them and in appropriate locations for greek.

Worn depicting a goddess for this event thus the symbology…

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Metallics

June 2017

Fabric: 100% silk (hand like organza) vintage silk sari in a rose color with gold and black block printing.

Pattern: draped on form

Year: 500 BCE

Notions: silk and gold thread

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials (albeit not saris in greece), machine sewn seams hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 8 hours Total

First worn: September 23rd for battlefield bardic scenario at Battle on the Bay

Total: $25 vintage silk sari & notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

Figurine of Aphrodite playing with Eros, from Tanagra, late 4th century BC (terracotta) by Greek School, (4th century BC)
terracotta

Copy of a Greek bronze statue of 375/374–360/359 B.C. by Kephisodotos

The sculptural type of a woman wearing a peplos becomes prominent during the second quarter of the fifth century B.C., especially in small bronzes. Contemporary works in terracotta on this scale are exceedingly rare. It is possible that this piece served as a model for the preparation of molds from which bronze representations would have been cast.

Ancient Greek statue of a woman with blue and gilt garment, fan and sun hat, from Tanagra, 325-300 BC

Traces of paint depicting embroidered patterns on the peplos of an Archaic kore

The willowy shape and the draping of the fabric on top of the maiden’s high, “melon” hairstyle are typically South Italian. The statuette was originally brightly painted.
3rd century BC (Hellenistic)

Greek terracotta statuette of a dancing maenad, 3rd century B.C. Made in Taranto. Metropolitan Museum of Art

WWI era Corset

Posted on February 6, 2017 by Angela

WWI Corset- I opted for the high bust for support but love the long line this corset creates! This is the base for the WWI era clothing I will be making and wearing throughout the year as part of the Centennial commemoration. This was the first wearing, without the garters (mostly because I forgot them that night) and under a skirt/blouse combo. It also was not fully laced as I had to lace myself in and can only get so much leverage behind my back.

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Firsts & Lasts

January 2017

Fabric: 100% cotton brocade and cotton drill lining

Pattern: 1913 late Edwardian Corset from Truly Victorian

Year: 1913

Notions: cotton thread, steel busk, bones, eyelets, garters, cotton lace, silk floss, linen tape for lacing

How historically accurate is it? 95% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 43 hours Total

First worn: January 31, 2017 for Centennial Kickoff event

Total: ~$40 bought busk, steels, and garters, fabric remnants & notions from stash

First Wearing (dancing both ragtime and swing with some WWII folks- don’t recommend swing dance in a longline corset)

Construction images…

Historical inspiration images…

1915-1917 corset at the Met

Corset – c. 1911-13 – by Au Royal Corset, Madrid, Spain

1915 Corset at the Met

1865 Stripey Corset

Posted on January 6, 2017 by Angela

This fabric really wanted to be a corset, even though stripes are not very period- I have enough fabric left to make a fun frilly skirt so this will likely be my “accidental steampunk” outfit. I needed a new Victorian corset so I also fixed some fitting issues from my first one to this one- should be more comfortable for a full day’s wear and working. I had to get photos on the dress form so the fitting isn’t quite right- it squishes in but not up!

1865 Stripey Corset

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Pattern

August 2016

Fabric: 100% cotton woven stripe, interlined with cotton canvas

Pattern: Dore corset from Victorian Underwear package Laughing Moon Mercantile

Year: 1837-1899 (I chose the Dore- earlier shape for Civil War wear but could be later due to my fabric choice)

Notions: cotton thread, steel busk, spring steel bones, grommets, linen tape for lacing, bias tape for binding, silk floss for flossing

How historically accurate is it? 80% given accurate materials for a later time frame with an earlier period shape, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 22 hours Total (4 hours cutting and fitting, 4 hours machine sewing, 2 hours installing grommets and boning, 8 hours handfinishing, 4 hours flossing)

First worn: September 2016

Total: ~$10 fabric remnant, $20 for busk and bones, notions from stash

Cardinal Red Cloak

Posted on January 6, 2017 by Angela

Cardinal Red Cloak- Red cloaks were popular in the 18th century and were all the rage in the Regency era. They are also seen in variations in the Victorian era. I have made mine more flexible by making the 18th century style hood removable so I can transfer this for other periods. I also made it a full circle from a cashmere/wool blend so it is truly luxurious and as warm as I could get! The inner collar blocks all cold breezes when it is inside the hood and the silk lining in the hood stops the wind. I felt the metal clasp was needed as from my experience I am strangled by ties or have shot buttons across the room from heavy cloaks. The hood pictures look odd because when I added the head form it was too tall, when I finally get someone to take real pictures of me wearing this I will update.

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Red

November 2016

Fabric: Cashmere/Wool Blend, Coat Weight and crosswoven silk taffeta for hood lining

Pattern: Full Circle to fit wearer, collar and hood drafted from 18th century drawing and pictures of museum pieces

Year: 18th-19th century (intentionally made for multiple periods)

Notions: silk thread, cast brass clasp

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials and hand sewn throughout but made fuller than originals

Hours to complete: 20 hours of handsewing

First worn: November 2016

Total: $80 fabric, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

18th century red wool cloak at Williamsburg

1860 red wool skating cape

1800 red wool cloak, silk lined hood with inner collar

Cloak, 1770, red wool with wool plush trim

Cloak, 1770, red wool with wool plush trim, hood detail

1890 red wool cape with metal clasp

Suffragette Ensemble

Posted on January 6, 2017 by Angela

Suffragette Ensemble

This is what I wore to cast my ballot this year in honor of our great-great-grandmothers who fought for our right to vote for so long.

I Voted!

The underlying components: 1910’s blouse and skirt:

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Heroes

October 2016

Fabric: Cotton/wool blend skirt, Satin ribbon sash, straw hat

Pattern: Sash sewn together satin ribbons, self drafted skirt pattern, “Elsie” WWI blouse

Year: 1915

Notions: cotton thread, satin ribbons, fabric ink, feathers and ribbons for hat

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished, hat all hand sticthed

Hours to complete: 10 hours Total (skirt, sash, and hat- not including the blouse that was used for an earlier challenge)

First worn: November 2016- early voting

Total: ~$30 fabric remnant, notions from stash and purchased ribbon and feathers

Historical inspiration images…

1916 casual dress suffragette

1915 USA Suffragettes

“Peter Pan” late 1920’s dress

Posted on October 6, 2016 by Angela

“Peter Pan” dress- this dress was started in January at our Seamstress Boot Camp Draping weekend- rayon twill seemed the perfect thing for draping on the bias and I started with the cowl neck then found that the fabric wasn’t enough (only about 1.5 yards) to swoop from front to back so I decided to cut it off in a zig zag to create godets out of what was left- thus the name peter pan since that is what it looked like at that point. After piecing the godets and using bits for the petal sleeves I had about 6″ of fabric left. I decided on a lot of the details by looking at late 20’s pieces.

This one is for time travel- later than anything else I have made to date and perfect for a Sunday drive or picnic. 🙂

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Travel

June 2016

Fabric: 100% rayon twill

Pattern: Draped on the dress form- started during our Seamstress Bootcamp and finished many months later

Year: late 1920’s

Notions: silk thread

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials for early 30’s and bias drape, cowl neck and godet hem, machine sewn and hand finished

Hours to complete: 22 hours Total (3 hours draping on the form and cutting, 3 hours machine sewing and resewing, a few months of being hauled around in pieces and for hand finishing, 16 hours handsewing)

First worn: September 2016 at Downton Abbey Garden Party

Total: ? inherited 30’s fabric remnant and silk thread

Historical inspiration images…

1920s-dress-pattern

Chorus Girls 1927

vionnet handkercheif dresses

Madeleine Vionnet lilac ombré chiffon bias-cut cocktail gown, ca. 1927. Simple slip-like gown with slightly ruched bodice to either side of the central inset point. Skirt falls in gored handkerchief pleats, the V-neckline and armholes edged with simple silver picot thread, integral petticoat.

WWI Blouse

Posted on October 6, 2016 by Angela

WWI Blouse in Cotton

The Great War brought austerity, simplicity, and practicality to fashion. A simple blouse like this could be worn tucked in or out and had a waist stay for keeping it in place and blousing.

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Monochrome

July 2016

Fabric: 100% cotton batiste dobby weave stripe

Pattern: “Elsie” WWI blouse from Wearing History

Year: 1915

Notions: cotton thread, dorset thread buttons (a little touch of Britain)

How historically accurate is it? 100% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 12 hours Total (2 hours cutting and fitting, 1 month of waiting around as pieces- intended for April challenge, 2 hours machine sewing, 2 months of riding around in bag waiting for hand sewing, 8 hours handsewing)

First worn: September 2016

Total: ~$10 fabric remnant, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

Plaited Apron

Posted on October 6, 2016 by Angela

The plaited or smocked apron is seen during many centuries but turns up a lot during the 16th century in Germany and creates a lovely decorative accessory to show off one’s needlework. This apron has both smocking at the top and a drawn thread work hem all the way around, entirely hand sewn with linen thread on linen ground. If you don’t have he patience for this I will be offering this style of apron in my etsy shop but it will be dear as befitting the amount of time that went into this. 🙂

I highly recommend the online tutorials and classes of Genoveva von Lubeck at Germanrenaissance.net for all manner of lovely handwork- she was lucky enough to grow up doing this and now shares it with patience and a love of the art with grateful students around the known world.