WWI Shirtwaist Dress

WWI Shirtwaist Dress

The Great War brought austerity, simplicity, and practicality to fashion.  A simple shirtwaist dress like this could be worn as a workdress or uniform.  Many women’s uniforms were made at home from widely available patterns.  Variations in material, decoration, and fastenings were seen.  These pictures are my friend Bethany wearing the dress at the Centennial kickoff event- a bit big on her but we see ladies during the war wearing both fitted and large uniforms.  This one fits a little closer than the work smock pictured on the doughnut girl because an original nurse’s uniform was used as the pattern.  Being in a time period with machine stitching and top stitching made this a quick dress to make.

donut-girlwwi-donut-girl

Historical Sew Monthly

WWI Shirtwaist Dress

The Challenge: Firsts & Lasts This was my first shirtwaist dress, copied from original nurse’s uniform but modified to match work smocks in tan with full front buttons.

January 2017

Fabric: Cotton/Linen light twill weave

Pattern: Copied from original WWI Nurse uniform

Year: 1917

Notions: cotton thread, metal buttons

How historically accurate is it? 100% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 30 hours Total

First worn: January 31st, 2016

Total: ~$10 fabric remnant, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

1910s-uniforms

1910s-uniforms

red-cross-unifrom closest to the original I copied for this pattern

red-cross-unifrom closest to the original I copied for this pattern

sa-in-france-during-the-war-1917 Notice work smock buttons all the way down the front

sa-in-france-during-the-war-1917
Notice work smock buttons all the way down the front

a-woman-in-the-salvation-army-holds-up-a-mold-for-cutting-donuts

a-woman-in-the-salvation-army-holds-up-a-mold-for-cutting-donuts

WWI Uniform dress- notice officer has jacket but the rest are shirtwaist dresses.- these are probably wool serge.

WWI Uniform dress- notice officer has jacket but the rest are shirtwaist dresses.- these are probably wool serge.

WWI era Corset

WWI Corset- I opted for the high bust for support but love the long line this corset creates!  This is the base for the WWI era clothing I will be making and wearing throughout the year as part of the Centennial commemoration.  This was the first wearing, without the garters (mostly because I forgot them that night) and under a skirt/blouse combo.  It also was not fully laced as I had to lace myself in and can only get so much leverage behind my back.

corset-back corset-front

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Firsts & Lasts

January 2017

Fabric: 100% cotton brocade and cotton drill lining

Pattern: 1913 late Edwardian Corset from Truly Victorian

Year: 1913

Notions: cotton thread, steel busk, bones, eyelets, garters, cotton lace, silk floss, linen tape for lacing

How historically accurate is it? 95% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 43 hours Total

First worn: January 31, 2017 for Centennial Kickoff event

Total: ~$40 bought busk, steels, and garters,  fabric remnants & notions from stash

First Wearing (dancing both ragtime and swing with some WWII folks- don’t recommend swing dance in a longline corset)

wwi-dance-2 wwi-dance-3 wwi-dance wwi-single

Construction images…

corset-pieces

wwi-corset-progress

Historical inspiration images…

1915-1917 corset at the Met

1915-1917 corset at the Met

Corset - c. 1911-13 - by Au Royal Corset, Madrid, Spain

Corset – c. 1911-13 – by Au Royal Corset, Madrid, Spain

1915 Corset at the Met

1915 Corset at the Met

Suffragette Ensemble

Suffragette Ensemble

This is what I wore to cast my ballot this year in honor of our great-great-grandmothers who fought for our right to vote for so long.

I Voted!

I Voted!

votes-for-women

The underlying components: 1910’s blouse and skirt:

elsie-blouse-full-front

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Heroes

October 2016

Fabric: Cotton/wool blend skirt, Satin ribbon sash, straw hat

Pattern: Sash sewn together satin ribbons, self drafted skirt pattern, “Elsie” WWI blouse

Year: 1915

Notions: cotton thread, satin ribbons, fabric ink, feathers and ribbons for hat

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished, hat all hand sticthed

Hours to complete: 10 hours Total (skirt, sash, and hat- not including the blouse that was used for an earlier challenge)

First worn: November 2016- early voting

Total: ~$30 fabric remnant, notions from stash and purchased ribbon and feathers

Historical inspiration images…

1916 casual dress suffragette

1916 casual dress suffragette

1915 USA Suffragettes

1915 USA Suffragettes

wwi-blouse-modesty-brooch1916-ad

WWI Blouse

WWI Blouse in Cotton

The Great War brought austerity, simplicity, and practicality to fashion.  A simple blouse like this could be worn tucked in or out and had a waist stay for keeping it in place and blousing.

elsie-blouse-frontelsie-blouse-back

elsie-blouse-tuckedelsie-blouse-shoulder-detail

elsie-blouse-full-frontelsie-blouse-buttons

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Monochrome

July 2016

Fabric: 100% cotton batiste dobby weave stripe

Pattern: “Elsie” WWI blouse from Wearing History

Year: 1915

Notions: cotton thread, dorset thread buttons (a little touch of Britain)

How historically accurate is it? 100% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 12 hours Total (2 hours cutting and fitting, 1 month of waiting around as pieces- intended for April challenge, 2 hours machine sewing, 2 months of riding around in bag waiting for hand sewing, 8 hours handsewing)

First worn: September 2016

Total: ~$10 fabric remnant, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

wwi-blouse-starched-cotton-lawn-blouse-great-britain-ca-1909wwi-blouse-modesty-brooch1915loxley-silk-pintuck-blouse1916-ad