1865 Stripey Corset

This fabric really wanted to be a corset, even though stripes are not very period- I have enough fabric left to make a fun frilly skirt so this will likely be my “accidental steampunk” outfit.  I needed a new Victorian corset so I also fixed some fitting issues from my first one to this one- should be more comfortable for a full day’s wear and working.  I had to get photos on the dress form so the fitting isn’t quite right- it squishes in but not up!

1865 Stripey Corset

striped-corset-frontstriped-corset-back

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Pattern

August 2016

Fabric: 100% cotton woven stripe, interlined with cotton canvas

Pattern: Dore corset from Victorian Underwear package Laughing Moon Mercantile

Year: 1837-1899 (I chose the Dore- earlier shape for Civil War wear but could be later due to my fabric choice)

Notions: cotton thread, steel busk, spring steel bones, grommets, linen tape for lacing, bias tape for binding, silk floss for flossing

How historically accurate is it? 80% given accurate materials for a later time frame with an earlier period shape, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 22 hours Total (4 hours cutting and fitting, 4 hours machine sewing, 2 hours installing grommets and boning, 8 hours handfinishing, 4 hours flossing)

First worn: September 2016

Total: ~$10 fabric remnant, $20 for busk and bones, notions from stash

Cardinal Red Cloak

Cardinal Red Cloak- Red cloaks were popular in the 18th century and were all the rage in the Regency era.  They are also seen in variations in the Victorian era.  I have made mine more flexible by making the 18th century style hood removable so I can transfer this for other periods.  I also made it a full circle from a cashmere/wool blend so it is truly luxurious and as warm as I could get!  The inner collar blocks all cold breezes when it is inside the hood and the silk lining in the hood stops the wind.  I felt the metal clasp was needed as from my experience I am strangled by ties or have shot buttons across the room from heavy cloaks.  The hood pictures look odd because when I added the head form it was too tall, when I finally get someone to take real pictures of me wearing this I will update.

red-cloak-side red-cloak-clasp red-cloak-side-tall red-cloak-tall-head-front red-cloak-tall-head-back

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Red

November 2016

Fabric: Cashmere/Wool Blend, Coat Weight and crosswoven silk taffeta for hood lining

Pattern: Full Circle to fit wearer, collar and hood drafted from 18th century drawing and pictures of museum pieces

Year: 18th-19th century (intentionally made for multiple periods)

Notions: silk thread, cast brass clasp

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials and hand sewn throughout but made fuller than originals

Hours to complete: 20 hours of handsewing

First worn: November 2016

Total: $80 fabric, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

18th century red wool cloak at Williamsburg

18th century red wool cloak at Williamsburg

1860 red wool skating cape

1860 red wool skating cape

1800 red wool cloak, silk lined hood with inner collar

1800 red wool cloak, silk lined hood with inner collar

Cloak, 1770, red wool with wool plush trim

Cloak, 1770, red wool with wool plush trim

Cloak, 1770, red wool with wool plush trim, hood detail

Cloak, 1770, red wool with wool plush trim, hood detail

1890 red wool cape with metal clasp

1890 red wool cape with metal clasp

Suffragette Ensemble

Suffragette Ensemble

This is what I wore to cast my ballot this year in honor of our great-great-grandmothers who fought for our right to vote for so long.

I Voted!

I Voted!

votes-for-women

The underlying components: 1910’s blouse and skirt:

elsie-blouse-full-front

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Heroes

October 2016

Fabric: Cotton/wool blend skirt, Satin ribbon sash, straw hat

Pattern: Sash sewn together satin ribbons, self drafted skirt pattern, “Elsie” WWI blouse

Year: 1915

Notions: cotton thread, satin ribbons, fabric ink, feathers and ribbons for hat

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished, hat all hand sticthed

Hours to complete: 10 hours Total (skirt, sash, and hat- not including the blouse that was used for an earlier challenge)

First worn: November 2016- early voting

Total: ~$30 fabric remnant, notions from stash and purchased ribbon and feathers

Historical inspiration images…

1916 casual dress suffragette

1916 casual dress suffragette

1915 USA Suffragettes

1915 USA Suffragettes

wwi-blouse-modesty-brooch1916-ad

“Peter Pan” late 1920’s dress

“Peter Pan” dress- this dress was started in January at our Seamstress Boot Camp Draping weekend- rayon twill seemed the perfect thing for draping on the bias and I started with the cowl neck then found that the fabric wasn’t enough (only about 1.5 yards) to swoop from front to back so I decided to cut it off in a zig zag to create godets out of what was left- thus the name peter pan since that is what it looked like at that point.  After piecing the godets and using bits for the petal sleeves I had about 6″ of fabric left.  I decided on a lot of the details by looking at late 20’s pieces.

This one is for time travel- later than anything else I have made to date and perfect for a Sunday drive or picnic. 🙂

peter-pan

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Travel

June 2016

Fabric: 100% rayon twill

Pattern: Draped on the dress form- started during our Seamstress Bootcamp and finished many months later

Year: late 1920’s

Notions: silk thread

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials for early 30’s and bias drape, cowl neck and godet hem, machine sewn and hand finished

Hours to complete: 22 hours Total (3 hours draping on the form and cutting, 3 hours machine sewing and resewing, a few months of being hauled around in pieces and for hand finishing, 16 hours handsewing)

First worn: September 2016 at Downton Abbey Garden Party

Total: ? inherited 30’s fabric remnant and silk thread

Historical inspiration images…

1920s-dress-pattern

1920s-dress-pattern

Chorus Girls 1927

Chorus Girls 1927

vionnet handkercheif dresses

vionnet handkercheif dresses

Madeleine Vionnet lilac ombré chiffon bias-cut cocktail gown, ca. 1927. Simple slip-like gown with slightly ruched bodice to either side of the central inset point. Skirt falls in gored handkerchief pleats, the V-neckline and armholes edged with simple silver picot thread, integral petticoat.

Madeleine Vionnet lilac ombré chiffon bias-cut cocktail gown, ca. 1927. Simple slip-like gown with slightly ruched bodice to either side of the central inset point. Skirt falls in gored handkerchief pleats, the V-neckline and armholes edged with simple silver picot thread, integral petticoat.

WWI Blouse

WWI Blouse in Cotton

The Great War brought austerity, simplicity, and practicality to fashion.  A simple blouse like this could be worn tucked in or out and had a waist stay for keeping it in place and blousing.

elsie-blouse-frontelsie-blouse-back

elsie-blouse-tuckedelsie-blouse-shoulder-detail

elsie-blouse-full-frontelsie-blouse-buttons

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Monochrome

July 2016

Fabric: 100% cotton batiste dobby weave stripe

Pattern: “Elsie” WWI blouse from Wearing History

Year: 1915

Notions: cotton thread, dorset thread buttons (a little touch of Britain)

How historically accurate is it? 100% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 12 hours Total (2 hours cutting and fitting, 1 month of waiting around as pieces- intended for April challenge, 2 hours machine sewing, 2 months of riding around in bag waiting for hand sewing, 8 hours handsewing)

First worn: September 2016

Total: ~$10 fabric remnant, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

wwi-blouse-starched-cotton-lawn-blouse-great-britain-ca-1909wwi-blouse-modesty-brooch1915loxley-silk-pintuck-blouse1916-ad

Plaited Apron

The plaited or smocked apron is seen during many centuries but turns up a lot during the 16th century in Germany and creates a lovely decorative accessory to show off one’s needlework.  This apron has both smocking at the top and a drawn thread work hem all the way around, entirely hand sewn with linen thread on linen ground.  If you don’t have he patience for this I will be offering this style of apron in my etsy shop but it will be dear as befitting the amount of time that went into this. 🙂

I highly recommend the online tutorials and classes of Genoveva von Lubeck at Germanrenaissance.net for all manner of lovely handwork- she was lucky enough to grow up doing this and now shares it with patience and a love of the art with grateful students around the known world.

plaited-apron-full plaited-apron-smocking plaited-apron-drawn-thread-hem

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Holes

May 2016

Fabric: 100% linen- handkerchief weight

Pattern: Class instructions from Genoveva von Lubeck, based on historical examples of plaiting and drawn thread work

Year: 16th century

Notions: linen thread

How historically accurate is it? 100% given accurate materials and hand sewn throughout

Hours to complete: 30 hours of handsewing

First worn: September 2016

Total: $20 fabric remnant, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

german-1530 drawn-thread-and-smocking  1529-german

Edwardian Bib Apron

Apron FrontApron back

This is a frilly Edwardian Apron, also for the Historically Sew Monthly March 2016 challenge…

The Challenge: Protection- March

Fabric: Cotton Batiste sewn with cotton thread

Pattern: Drafted to look as close to pictures as possible, based off of other aprons for sizing and tried on during construction

Year: 1910’s

Notions: shell buttons for straps under waistband

How historically accurate is it? As close to the picture as I could get along with comparison to other extant garments

Hours to complete: Total: 5   (Cutting and Sewing: 5)

First worn: Work at Steppingstone Farm Museum, May 2016

Total cost: $18   fabric from my stash, buttons and thread unknown

And the inspiration images…

1910 Edwardian Christmas

1910 Edwardian Christmas

 

1910 cooks dress and apron

1910 cooks dress and apron

 

1910, White cotton maid's apron hand embroidered with broderie anglais trim

1910, White cotton maid’s apron hand embroidered with broderie anglais trim

 

1910s canning lesson

1910s canning lesson