“Peter Pan” late 1920’s dress

“Peter Pan” dress- this dress was started in January at our Seamstress Boot Camp Draping weekend- rayon twill seemed the perfect thing for draping on the bias and I started with the cowl neck then found that the fabric wasn’t enough (only about 1.5 yards) to swoop from front to back so I decided to cut it off in a zig zag to create godets out of what was left- thus the name peter pan since that is what it looked like at that point.  After piecing the godets and using bits for the petal sleeves I had about 6″ of fabric left.  I decided on a lot of the details by looking at late 20’s pieces.

This one is for time travel- later than anything else I have made to date and perfect for a Sunday drive or picnic. 🙂

peter-pan

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Travel

June 2016

Fabric: 100% rayon twill

Pattern: Draped on the dress form- started during our Seamstress Bootcamp and finished many months later

Year: late 1920’s

Notions: silk thread

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials for early 30’s and bias drape, cowl neck and godet hem, machine sewn and hand finished

Hours to complete: 22 hours Total (3 hours draping on the form and cutting, 3 hours machine sewing and resewing, a few months of being hauled around in pieces and for hand finishing, 16 hours handsewing)

First worn: September 2016 at Downton Abbey Garden Party

Total: ? inherited 30’s fabric remnant and silk thread

Historical inspiration images…

1920s-dress-pattern

1920s-dress-pattern

Chorus Girls 1927

Chorus Girls 1927

vionnet handkercheif dresses

vionnet handkercheif dresses

Madeleine Vionnet lilac ombré chiffon bias-cut cocktail gown, ca. 1927. Simple slip-like gown with slightly ruched bodice to either side of the central inset point. Skirt falls in gored handkerchief pleats, the V-neckline and armholes edged with simple silver picot thread, integral petticoat.

Madeleine Vionnet lilac ombré chiffon bias-cut cocktail gown, ca. 1927. Simple slip-like gown with slightly ruched bodice to either side of the central inset point. Skirt falls in gored handkerchief pleats, the V-neckline and armholes edged with simple silver picot thread, integral petticoat.

WWI Blouse

WWI Blouse in Cotton

The Great War brought austerity, simplicity, and practicality to fashion.  A simple blouse like this could be worn tucked in or out and had a waist stay for keeping it in place and blousing.

elsie-blouse-frontelsie-blouse-back

elsie-blouse-tuckedelsie-blouse-shoulder-detail

elsie-blouse-full-frontelsie-blouse-buttons

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Monochrome

July 2016

Fabric: 100% cotton batiste dobby weave stripe

Pattern: “Elsie” WWI blouse from Wearing History

Year: 1915

Notions: cotton thread, dorset thread buttons (a little touch of Britain)

How historically accurate is it? 100% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 12 hours Total (2 hours cutting and fitting, 1 month of waiting around as pieces- intended for April challenge, 2 hours machine sewing, 2 months of riding around in bag waiting for hand sewing, 8 hours handsewing)

First worn: September 2016

Total: ~$10 fabric remnant, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

wwi-blouse-starched-cotton-lawn-blouse-great-britain-ca-1909wwi-blouse-modesty-brooch1915loxley-silk-pintuck-blouse1916-ad

Orange Rain Cloak

A rain cloak that reminds me of sunsets and orange sherbet and also for the Historically Sew Monthly  January Challenge… Procrastination

This project started many years ago when I started saying “I need a rain cloak” then grew a few years back when I started attending Pennsic where it can be in the 90’s and raining and I am often caught out with armfuls of shopping when I say “I really need a rain cloak big enough to cover all this and not hot” which led me to a friend who had brilliantly made hoods our of waterproof cotton.  So, I went hunting for waterproofed cotton which took me a while to find and when I did it was orange, a nice orange but orange none the less.  I was afraid to over dye it because I didn’t know how it would effect the waterproofing.  Then, last year I finally had enough of the rain and made a point of cutting it out, which sat around for a year.  Then, I machine sewed the pieces together in time for Pennsic this past year because it was supposed to have torrential rain but ended up having none, probably because I came prepared with something I could wear to keep me dry even if it wasn’t finished.

I foolishly decided to hand finish this, I say foolish because it took forever and required 2 thimbles to sew due to the tight weave of the fabric.  Some of you have seen me wearing this and sewing the hem as I wore it on a rainy day… but it kept getting pushed aside for proper clothing, historical clothing that I could get excited about.  So, this last weekend when I got back on the wagon for the Historical Sew Monthly and saw that the challenge was procrastination I figured the bit of orange peeking out at me from the finishing pile in the sewing room was fair game, it has been many years/months in the making so as we put on several movies and I armed my fingers I finished the last of the long, long, long hem, decided to add some soft boning in the hem of the hood, and then decided to throw out the idea of hand flat felling all the interior seams in favor of binding them by machine with bias tape- which I had in a very close orange color in the stash inherited from my mother in law, along with one large orangey mother of pearl button.  Voila!   The beast is done, is not as historical as I would like but it will keep me and whatever I choose to carry or several friends dry.  I promise another procrastinated project for the February pleats challenge and a proper historical piece for the March protection challenge. 🙂

orange sherbet cloak

The Challenge: Procrastination

January 2016

Fabric: 100% cotton waterproofed trench material

Pattern: Vogue shaped shoulder cloak

Year: 19th century with shaped shoulders

Notions: bias tape bindings, shell button

How historically accurate is it? The shape and purpose are accurate but a modern practical compromise of waterproofed cotton rather than oilcloth

Hours to complete: Total: 20  (Cutting: 1, Sewing: 2, Hand finishing: 8)

First worn: Unfinished Aug-Oct 2015, finished January 2016

Total: $48 fabric, notions from inherited stash

 

Historical inspiration images…

Civil War full length cloak with fitted shoulders.

Civil War full length cloak with fitted shoulders.

Civil War full length cloak with fitted shoulders and single closure at neck.

Civil War full length cloak with fitted shoulders and single closure at neck.

Civil War long cloak with fitted shoulders and hood.

Civil War long cloak with fitted shoulders and hood.

orange silk cloak 18th c

Orange! 18th Century cloak with hood

Orange! with awesome decorations...

Orange! with awesome decorations…