1865 Stripey Corset

This fabric really wanted to be a corset, even though stripes are not very period- I have enough fabric left to make a fun frilly skirt so this will likely be my “accidental steampunk” outfit.  I needed a new Victorian corset so I also fixed some fitting issues from my first one to this one- should be more comfortable for a full day’s wear and working.  I had to get photos on the dress form so the fitting isn’t quite right- it squishes in but not up!

1865 Stripey Corset

striped-corset-frontstriped-corset-back

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Pattern

August 2016

Fabric: 100% cotton woven stripe, interlined with cotton canvas

Pattern: Dore corset from Victorian Underwear package Laughing Moon Mercantile

Year: 1837-1899 (I chose the Dore- earlier shape for Civil War wear but could be later due to my fabric choice)

Notions: cotton thread, steel busk, spring steel bones, grommets, linen tape for lacing, bias tape for binding, silk floss for flossing

How historically accurate is it? 80% given accurate materials for a later time frame with an earlier period shape, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 22 hours Total (4 hours cutting and fitting, 4 hours machine sewing, 2 hours installing grommets and boning, 8 hours handfinishing, 4 hours flossing)

First worn: September 2016

Total: ~$10 fabric remnant, $20 for busk and bones, notions from stash

Edwardian Bib Apron

Apron FrontApron back

This is a frilly Edwardian Apron, also for the Historically Sew Monthly March 2016 challenge…

The Challenge: Protection- March

Fabric: Cotton Batiste sewn with cotton thread

Pattern: Drafted to look as close to pictures as possible, based off of other aprons for sizing and tried on during construction

Year: 1910’s

Notions: shell buttons for straps under waistband

How historically accurate is it? As close to the picture as I could get along with comparison to other extant garments

Hours to complete: Total: 5   (Cutting and Sewing: 5)

First worn: Work at Steppingstone Farm Museum, May 2016

Total cost: $18   fabric from my stash, buttons and thread unknown

And the inspiration images…

1910 Edwardian Christmas

1910 Edwardian Christmas

 

1910 cooks dress and apron

1910 cooks dress and apron

 

1910, White cotton maid's apron hand embroidered with broderie anglais trim

1910, White cotton maid’s apron hand embroidered with broderie anglais trim

 

1910s canning lesson

1910s canning lesson

Pleated 1890s skirt

skirt frontskirt back

This is a reproduction piece for the skirt from the “Skating Ensemble” from the Kyoto Museum, also for the Historically Sew Monthly February 2016 challenge…

The Challenge: Tucks and Pleats- February

Fabric: Cotton Chambray plaid, buttonholes sewn with cotton thread

Pattern: Drafted to look as close to picture as possible, pleats set with vinegar to 12″

Year: 1890’s

Notions: metal buttons

How historically accurate is it? As close to the picture as I could get along with comparison to other extant garments

Hours to complete: Total: 3   (Cutting and Sewing: 1, Setting Pleats: 1, Buttonholes: 1)

First worn: Work at Steppingstone Farm Museum, February 12, 2016

Total cost: $28   fabric and supplies from my stash, buttons and thread unknown

And the inspiration image…

Kyoto Institute 1890's Skating Ensemble

Kyoto Institute 1890’s Skating Ensemble

Civil War Mourning Gown

A mourning gown had been on my “to sew” list for many years, but I was motivated to finally get it done to wear to the exhibit opening of “Death Becomes Her” a Victorian Mourning Clothes exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  It was done enough to wear there but I am in the process of adding more trimmings and details as I am wont to do…

The smooth line of the fitted bodice emphasizes the small waist with wide shoulders and the width of the hoop.  This effect is emphasized with the cartridge pleated waist.

This gown is made from silk taffeta, self piped,  lined with polished cotton and is hand finished to complete the period look.

  • Mourning gown
  • Machine sewn inner seams
  • Hand finished (hems, edging, hooks and eyes)
mourning back

Photography by Drew Harting

mourning carriage

Photography by Drew Harting

IMG_0161

Photography by Drew Harting

Civil War Ball Gown- Green & Gold

Photography by Drew Harting

Photography by Drew Harting

This richly colored civil war ball gown brings to life the crinoline era, or early Victorian period.  The rich moss green and gold damask is complimented with antique gold lace and piping, which was inspired by a gown from 1860 in the Kyoto museum.  The smooth line of the body emphasizes the small waist with wide shoulders and the width of the hoop.  The bertha, or lightly gathered lace section across the neckline, emphasizes the width at the shoulders and creates a lovely frame for the face.  The antique gold piping pulls out the gold color but also reinforces the bodice and arm edges while being decorative. Piping was a very popular decorative and reinforcement element in the civil war period. This gown is made from a modern rayon and polyester blend, but it was used because of the original gown it called to mind and because with bulk of the fiber being rayon, man-made but still a natural fiber content, it remains comfortable while having the right drape of heavy silks. When I saw this fabric, it reminded me of a gown in my Kyoto book and by replacing the white with gold I used the original gown as inspiration and guidance in shaping and trimming this gown. I have since replaced the rose with a gold silk rose to better match the original.

  • 1860’s Chemise with pin tucks on the front and tiny cluny lace at the edges
  • Corset, hoops, and petticoats to create shape
  • Smooth bodice with lace bertha, piping, and cluny lace at sleeve edges
  • Machine sewn inner seams
  • Hand finished (hems, edging, lace casings)

civil green sleeve detailcropped-IMG_0005.jpg

civil green inspiration civil green front

Photography by Drew Harting

Photography by Drew Harting

Photography by Drew Harting

Photography by Drew Harting

civil green and blue

Civil War Ball Gown- Blue & Cream

This lovely civil war ball gown brings to life the crinoline era, or early Victorian period.  The pale cerulean blue and cream striped fabric is embroidered with flowers and butterflies in the stripes. This is a silk fabric with rayon embroidery from vintage curtains found at auction, yes, this makes it a real Scarlet O’Hara dress since it is made from curtains. We removed the linings and hooks and recycled them into new curtains. Pale colors were much favored for candlelit ballrooms and by younger ladies. My daughter loves blue, butterflies, and flowers so this fabric was a given for her gown. The bodice is pieced to center the embroidery motif on each side and it is finished with a self fabric bertha proportioned to balance the gown on a small stature. The smooth line of the body emphasizes the small waist with wide shoulders and the width of the hoop.  The bertha, or gathered and ruched section across the neckline, emphasizes the width at the shoulders and creates a lovely self-fabric trim.  This gown is made from silk taffeta and is hand finished to complete the period look.

  • 1860’s Chemise with smocking on the front and tiny cluny lace at the edges
  • Unboned “Sensible Stays” rather than a corset to create shape
  • Ballgown with smaller cup sleeves and self fabric ruffle bertha
  • Machine sewn inner seams
  • Hand finished (hems, edging, hooks and eyes)

civil war blue front civil war blue front detail civil war blue dancing civil war blue dance civil war blue back view

Civil War Ball Gown- Peacock Blue

This lovely civil war ball gown brings to life the crinoline era, or early Victorian period.  The bold peacock blue color of the silk taffeta is contrasted with black lace and flower trim, which was one of many fashion trends from 1860-1865.  The smooth line of the body emphasizes the small waist with wide shoulders and the width of the hoop.  The bertha, or gathered and ruched section across the neckline, emphasizes the width at the shoulders and creates a lovely self-fabric trim.  This gown is made from pure silk taffeta and is hand finished to complete the period look.

The gentleman in pinstripes is my Dad, we modified a modern shirt, wool pants, and wool jacket for him by altering the cut and replacing all of the buttons. I made his vest and cravat to create this dapper civilian impression for the Remembrance Day Ball at Gettysburg.

  • 1860’s Chemise with pin tucks on the front and cluny lace at the edges
  • Pure Silk Taffeta Ball Gown with Self- fabric Bertha and black cluny lace
  • Machine sewn inner seams
  • Hand finished (hems, edging, hooks and eyes)

civil war p blue side view civil war p blue side long civil war p blue front civil war p blue dance civil war p blue alone