Ultralight Kirtle

Counting this for the Historically Sew Monthly January 2022 challenge… which was an anniversary challenge celebrating 10 years to choose something from the 2013 list.  This one could work for several of those: #UFO #Under it All #Peasant #Lacing #Metal #Color Challenge Green  #HistoricalSewMonthly2022

The Challenge: Anniversary- January

Fabric: Two linen curtain panels from the thrift store and some cotton twill from my stash

Pattern: Drafted from my old body block (maybe 2012 eek!) with some redraping help from a friend (at a sewing gathering about 2019?) then it sat in the UFO pile for a while

Year: 16th Century

Notions: metal drapery rings, naturel linen tape for lacing and trim, matching green thread, 4 cable ties for boning

How historically accurate is it? It has a good look overall (although I’m not in love with the pull of lacing rings or the gaping at the front partly due to pandemic pounds) I also intentionally made this as a wearable mock-up to test as few layers and little boning as possible that could be thrown in the washer for wear at crazy hot events- it does work for that and is very comfortable and supportive for all day wear.

Hours to complete: Total: 30 

First worn: April 2022, when I loaned it out for a Shakespeare demo, worn by me May 2022

Total cost: $12   

Thanks to Shaina Cara and her casual event photos- I caught her eyeing me so struck a “fete at bermondsey” pose 😉 ie my favorite painting showing a span of classes and clothes and behavior all in a crowd together!

Marcus Gheeraerts the Elder – Festival at Bermondsey- 1571 public domain

Top Ten for Pennsic 48- “the wild ride”

The list for this year has been a long time coming- even longer than last year- because this year was literally the craziest, busiest, most breathless year ever and my re-entry to the day to day was rough.  As in, we just wrapped up Labor day weekend and I still don’t have everything cleaned and put away which I normally get done within a week.  I have tried to include some of the many many Thank you’s of which I am sure I missed some and will follow up with photos for items that were crafted for me and catch more of you with personal “Thank you’s” and hugs!

In the tradition of posting a list of top ten moments from Pennsic, I am sharing from all aspects that I loved then adding notes for my own tradition of setting goals and objectives each year as Pennsic is my SCA “new year” so to speak…

10. Crazy Schedule is Crazy– this I need to remember and reflect on next year.  In my defense, I had filled up my schedule with teaching and performance and becoming a soldier before I was given a writ 3 weeks before Pennsic.  Normally 3 weeks would be a lot of time (and my daughter warned them that I would want to plan) but this is also during my busy season- working 11 hour days up till the weekend that I leave and I had 120 quail eggs ready to hatch the Monday after the writ was given so I had my schedule pretty packed before and during… (Thank you to all those who were involved in the shenanigans- and getting both my daughter and husband there, he was well disguised enough that she thought to herself “who is that guy creeping up behind my mom?” even though she knew he was on site…)


9.Teaching and learning- still and probably always in the top ten, it is why I am in this to begin with. This year I taught a total of 9 classes although I was scheduled for 11.

  • “Dressed for the Sultan intro to 16th century Ottoman Turkish clothing”
  • “Coaching and the Art of Constructive Criticism”
  • “Whatever Shall I Wear?” Newcomer’s Garb class
  • “Are you wearing a tablecloth? Intro to Greek garb” at the Early Period Arts and Sciences day hosted by Clan Praechain
  • “Greek garb make and take”
  • “Yoga for Rest and Relaxation” hosted again this year in Atlantian Royal camp before dinner M,W,F of both weeks (although I had to get a sub for the last Wed and Fri due to the ceremony and leaving early for a family reunion)

8. Volunteering- This is always a part of my Pennsic, although the service looks different from year to year depending on who needs what and asks for help.  Again this year for the Children’s fete as Queen Elinor from Brave and singing with the bards as we valiantly attempt to out-sing a barnful of children.  Also setting up the Performing Arts tent as we finished the stage, erected curtains, added stairs, and started seating.  I had another shift to work and Lady Scholastica Joycours (Atlantia you should be proud of her outstanding service as Dean of Performing Arts at Pennsic) wisely suggested working the light board during the Wed night shift after Atlantian court- I would have attended Mistress Marian of Heatherdale’s show regardless but this was a welcome respite after the elevation and the buildup to that event.  I even got to jump up and sing a couple pieces to fill a lull on stage with a full tent which helped unload the last of the energy and pure adrenaline that had kept me running for most of Pennsic.


7. Performing- This year I finally did a stage show on my own, only half an hour and sadly more scatterbrained than I should have been but I think I was borderline to heat exhaustion that day coming directly from the A&S display where I had been displaying, performing in the middle with the Janissary band, and enjoying a wonderful surprise court for Mistress Vadoma.  I also was part of the “Not Your Typical Atlantian Thugs” concert, proving the graciousness of Mistress Rosalind as I sang a new to me piece of hers, flubbed and replaced words on the fly, with her in the audience smiling along.  The bit of diddling to wrap up my set went over very well with the greatest audience engagement, as it should be with a tent full of bards. 😉


6. Joining the Janissary- this was a big commitment this year and it was awesome- I wasn’t sure what I had gotten myself into with the rest of my busy schedule and spent weeks leading up memorizing the songs in Turkish and making my uniform- that had to get done before elevation garb although a lot of finishing came with me to war because I ran out of time.  This was answered at the first rehearsal when just the brass warming up threw me right back into my marching band days, but now a more specialized immersion version!  The ultimate compliment was from someone I always secretly wanted to impress before I became a peer who stopped me in uniform on my way back to camp to tell me how impressive the Janissary band was- so I guess it can take a an army of friends to make an impression that we can’t on our own.  My voice did pay the price for singing as loud as possible as a guy for a few days straight so I am seriously looking into playing Zurna next year.  You have been warned. (Thanks to Master Osman for keeping steady pressure through hints, questions, and tastes of geekery until I was hooked.  Also thanks to Ella and Keylan who made this so much fun- I look forward to their children’s book “The sleepiest Janissary” which is apparently about yours truly mustering as a soldier for the field battle on 2 hours of sleep after my vigil.  Also blessings unto Bambi, the goddess of Turkish coffee, that made this experience truly sublime 🙂


5. Vigil- was a wonderful evening with a grand bardic and party that I got to start off the first hour of until their majesties arrived to place me on vigil. A huge Thank You to everyone who visited and shared their wisdom and advice with me or a song or tale around the fire. I do not even know all of those who were a part of planning and preparing this evening but I owe thanks to all of camp Southwind for hosting and especially Mistress Johanna and Duchess Simone for coordinating, Lady Deirdre and Lord Llewellyn for setting up the food, Sir Alherin, Abigail, and I am sure many others for cooking, Master Ruaidhri for brewing, Baroness Amani for the lovely gold printed silk Salwar and Zibin with pins, Lady Sarah for the gomlek, Lady Ella for the cotton undersalwar, and Mistress Michel for the slippers.

I requested a traditional all night vigil and although the party wound down eventually a few friends came back to visit and I eventually left the tent in the wee hours of the morning to join company around the fire for an hour or so with Finn, Richard and Evelyn who valiantly tried to stay the course with me but eventually gave in to sleep.  The last was Master Dahrien (which will surprise no other bards who know him) and when I said I was ready to turn into a pumpkin he helped move chairs under cover and bid me good night then I prepped for some sleep and stayed by myself at the fire till I saw the edge of dawn creeping on the horizon.  I finally went back to my tent and found a text from Dahrien offering to finish sitting my vigil for me, that being a service and him being a pelican.  Thanks for the offer Dahrien. I took a nap until the wake up crew was set to arrive and rouse me into a soldier to muster at the battlefield.

The photo below is with my dear friend Sir Finn who was one of our daughter’s first babysitters, a friend form college who used to make fun of me for being in the SCA but is now a knight and has served as a landed baron in the Outlands.


4. The time between- Master Richard said he was very pleased that I had a few days gap between my vigil and ceremony at Pennsic because he had experienced the same (although his vigil was a surprise) and found that it gave him time to reflect on the change in his role in this game of ours.  I wasn’t sure how much time I would have for reflecting given my already packed schedule but these days are when this whole thing started feeling more real. It was still a flurry of activity with classes and performances and dance but there was a cast of the responsibility to keep this magic alive, to provide inspiration and support, to work for the good and continuation of the dream.  I think I always strove toward this ideal, but now I was preparing to accept it as duty, as responsibility, as much a job as a calling.

3. Elevation to the Order of the Laurel- you might have thought this would be number one but in my mind it was not.  The ceremony was wonderful and I managed to maintain some dignity and not ugly cry through the whole thing.  Thank you to the many worthies who spoke for me- Duchess Simone with words from Mistress Barb-hah-rah as a Laurel, Mistress Johanna with words from Mistress Gianetta as a Pelican, Sir Kollack as a Knight, Master Giacomo as a MOD, and Countess Rowan as a Lady of the Rose. I wore the undersalwar finished by Lady Ella, Silk block printed salwar from Baroness Amani (and carried Turkish Prayer beads she had gifted me), a linen Gomlek made by Lady Sarah, a linen anteri finished by several of my campmates including Mistress Johanna, a watered silk anteri finished by Lady Clara with woven buttons made at Pennsic by Mistress Blitha, and a Tarpus made by Lady Ella.

There were lovely presentations of the Laurel kashbasti (turkish headband) embroidered by Mistress Vadoma, the ceremonial kaftan finished by my daughter Evelyn de Trees, the medallion (scrimshaw on wire weaving from Mistress Barb-hah-rah), and finally a sash (intentionally made so I could use it with many periods) embroidered with Laurel leaves and Linden leaves by each person who attended the vigil, this was by my request to Lady Ella who came up with the perfect item and presented it in lovely fashion as well.  This brings me to my next point…


2. Miracle of Many Hands, Many Hearts– Something crazy happened, it started on the day I was given my writ but continued right up to the middle of the ceremony.  That day, there were immediate congratulations and an outpouring of joy which continued over the month.  There also were offers to help and to create, and organize, and help pull this all together.    Not everyone may see this as a miracle, but I have always said that service is love manifest, and I am so honored that so many of you wanted to be a part of this wonderful moment.  There was work in advance, from those coordinating vigil and ceremony and preparing their parts mentioned above but also a whole team of people who just jumped in with “how can I help?” and joined me for sewing weekends and evenings leading up to Pennsic.  Many thanks to all of you who jumped in ahead of time and helped create all the amazing things listed above, also those of you who made things happen at war that I never could have expected and were wonderful surprises- Johanna and other camp mates taking sewing out of my hands, handling the vigil prep and setup and cleanup when I was too dazed to help.  Blitha following me back to camp after my class and showing me the method she found for diagonally weaving buttons- then just saying “give me your supplies and I’ll see what I can do” then having finished buttons appear on my bed a couple days later!  Thea and Scholastica dropping by camp to recruit talent for the reader’s theater (the got Evelyn for the leading role) and Thea asking about prep that needed doing then taking all of my token supplies and creating a pile of lovely tokens that I have seen worn so many times since- a sign that others loved them as much as I did!  Every effort and contribution was a surprise, a delight, and led me to the last…

1. Love is Humbling- especially for me.  Ya’ll made me cry.  A LOT.  I can never express enough thanks for every kind word and action, only know that each of them is impressed into my memory and my heart.  I don’t understand how or why I could deserve such and outpouring of love and can only strive in my continued service to be worthy of the faith you have placed in me.

And the biggest thanks of all to go my daughter who made excuses to show up for both the surprise of the writ, and for all of Pennsic and was a steadfast support and dedicated seamstress throughout.  From providing hankies, and arms to lean on, speed sewing, hugs and hugs and hugs, and mental breaks to debrief.  You are an amazing young woman and I am blessed every day to see how you use your talent and dedication to make your dreams come true!




Goal for this year- Continue “upping my game” but this year I want to focus on my level of performance because now I have felt some moments of best and I want more of that also… also working on my masterwork project, it is coming along in baby steps but needs presentation which thanks to lots of ideas I now have an idea for. 🙂

Objectives-I want accountability and feedback so feel free to challenge me to any new piece this year and let me know how to make it better!

Memorize one new song a month and prepare it for best level performance*. (continuing 5th year, getting a good repertoire now just need a list to remember what I remember)

Work up one story per month and prepare it for best level performance*. (failed on this one last year due to life but I’m back at it and some stories may work for real life to)

*Practice best level performance- breath control, planned and practiced projection, pitch, emphasis, emotion, dynamic range- until it becomes ingrained. (now practicing 5 hours per week so this is improving)

Complete one piece of garb each month. (continuing and working toward the masterwork)

Complete one non-garb sewing or other craft project each month. ( working on this one, starting with trying to do at least 3 repairs or special cleanings a week)


Top Ten for Pennsic 47- “confessions of an addict”

It appears I missed last year entirely, I’m guessing due to being between moves with no computer, but I’m back at it this year because the list is good!  And this one got started then left in drafts for a very long time.  It is now well past Pennsic but the observations still stand.

In the tradition of posting a list of top ten moments from Pennsic, I am sharing from all aspects that I loved then adding notes for my own tradition of setting goals and objectives each year as Pennsic is my SCA “new year” so to speak…

10. Camp Set up was done in record time this year– in part because we had another barony added to our camp and more hands at the ready. Camp common tent, kitchen, shower, sheet walls, even the woodshed were all done by Sunday evening. As it should be. We are all here on vacation after all and my classes started Monday. The years that camp setup extended through half of the first week we’re painful enough for me to start thinking of building a vardo and going out on my own.

Opening ceremonies postchat time, photo by Amani

9. Down time. Yes, I do have some at Pennsic. Especially the first week as I slowly disconnect from the rush of the every day, recover from long work days leading up to Pennsic, and slow down, just slow down. It is a luxury to reset your circadian rhythms, wake when you wake, enjoy frog call and bird song, music and drums. To leave technology and instant communication away so no one can reach you unless they make the effort to find you in person. This reminds us of our natural mode of communication and it feels so right. Despite the heat or wet or mud of some years, the slowing down is always there and is made so much more valuable by having two weeks to let it fully take effect.

tent view

My Favorite View to wake up to in the morning…

8. Bearing the memory of those we have lost, most recently Baron Taliesynne Nychymwrh yr Anghyfannedd Llanrhyddlad, otherwise known by me as Papa Taly, whose household I was honored to be a part of- Unycorne’s Hospyce. Taly received his AOA the year I was born and was one of those SCA founders that had always been and would always be, albeit he now watches us from among the stars. He had a quiet demeanor and eyes that belied the strength and power within. I wanted to write something for Taly but my thoughts turned more toward where we have come from, how we weather the current winds of change and turmoil, and where we are headed. Thus I shared this new piece at many circles with a dedication to Papa Taly, the Herald who helped me find my name, who laughed at my enthusiasm for clothing and getting “the look”, for wild places and their secrets shared, the joy of plants and botanical latin, the brightest light of our elders.

In the space of a moment when time falls away and the mist of memory rises,
You find yourself in the vast halls of a place, surrounded by your chosen kindred.
Each of them sees their own halls around, each wears their various raiment,
Their interests and arts are as many as they yet sharing has brought all together.

Are you awake or is this a dream? Touch, taste, and smell all you see.
For each gentle you greet with a smile and embrace tells you that this dream is real.

The vault of these halls was lifted by those whose vision and toil came before us,
they wanted a place for virtue to thrive and the weight of the world to escape.
In goodwill they opened the doors to their halls and welcomed all as nobles,
with wisdom and joy these builders of our dream crafted the halls of our elders.

Who were the first to give us this dream? Their imagination still surrounds us.
With their service and art they made manifest this fantasy that you can feel.

Now greet each new gentle to join in our game and welcome them into our halls.
Clothe them and feed them and teach them our arts for one day they to will be family.
Our young know the joy of play become real and keeping the magic of childhood,
they learn at the knee of the masters of arts and grow in the joy of service.

How strong is a dream that lives past today? Five score years and still blooming.
Chivalry, courtesy, honor, and love. Our gifts to a new generation.

Now the old and the young, the page and the peer may dance and sing together,
weaving the magic of a place called the dream where values bind us together.
When threatened our halls from within or without, we’ll rally and stand as one.
And raise up our voices to far magistrates that righteousness may yet be done.

Are you yet willing to fight for this dream, to ensure it dwells not in darkness?
Well, the choice it is mine, and the choice can be yours, to carry the light of our elders!

Lady Faye in 16th C Turkish clothing holds up a printing block to demonstrate block printing.

Teaching block printing at Silvertree Souq, photo by Amani

7. Teaching and learning are what got me involved in the SCA in the first place and keep me engaged and planning. This year was a big teaching year with the Dressed for the Sultan classes and workshops leading up to Atlantia’s current reign, it is always fun when someone gets the populace excited about something that you already love to do and you get to share! It seemed fitting to add this class to the usual lineup that I have been teaching at Pennsic. This year the “Are you wearing a tablecloth? Intro to Greek garb” and the “Greek garb make and take” were not as full so I may feel less guilty about retiring them eventually. The “Coaching and the Art of Constructive Criticism” class was also more lightly attended albeit with some good discussion but I feel this is so needed that it should stay, maybe with a revamp for more discussion and practice. The “Dressed for the Sultan intro to 16th century Ottoman Turkish clothing” class was packed and folks kept filling in, albeit some left after the first hour to get to other classes. The difficulty here was getting through the many slides of lovely pictures, which worked well for only half the attendees that read the description about bringing a mobile device to follow along with the slides. I will probably offer this again but need to either print more photo books or request an evening slot for the projector to work well in a tent. This year I also added yoga classes with a coteacher although I ended up leading the bulk of them. This was before dinner yoga in the Atlantian royal camp. I need yoga at least every other day anyway so I probably will continue to offer this and it was so much fun to have some brand new yogis that discovered how this could help resolve the pain of setup and walking miles per day. I also added a demonstration/class for block printing textiles at Silvertree Souq where they were offering blocks and silks for sale. We may keep some drop in printing sessions for next year.

Teaching yoga at Atlantian Royal Camp


6. Displaying for the known world Arts and Sciences was a first for me but lots of fun to share Ottoman Turkish clothing with so many people, from those for whom it was new and surprising to those who were delighted to find it in the display to those who actively saught me out. I tried again for a predominantly visual display that would encourage others to make more historically accurate middle eastern garb. My clothing rack included samples of several construction and decoration techniques labeled and arranged from most accurate to most expedited.

pennsic display

5. Performing was not new but different, especially on the main stage of the performing arts tent. I joined the bardic arts expo again this year with 2 pieces and later that night was part of the “Not your typical Atlantian thugs” concert. I knew I wanted to share Dierdre’s song in the Atlantian concert as it is written by mistress Rosalind who was not able to attend pennsic this year. This was the first piece of hers that I learned after she requested I sing some of her music a few years ago when first she heard me sing. It spoke to me and is one that I had not heard others performing. For the afternoon expo I was undecided but wanted pieces big enough to fill the tent. All morning “Oh Death” kept creeping into my head as if Anne were tapping me on the shoulder and requesting I sing her song. So this was my first piece of the day, followed by “As I Roved out” to round up two period pieces for the expo (master Richard was saying I should do more period pieces and I had to remind him that originally that was all I ever did). It felt like my stage performance was far and away better than anything I did around a fire. I may just take up the challenge from Scholastica and do a full set of my own on the stage next year. You have been warned.

4. Exceptional Work was seen throughout the war both in acts of service and in the arts. I thoroughly enjoyed taking part in the A&S display and the little bit I got around to see was fantastic. I especially loved being next to baroness Tala with her display on the research and creation of the tughra for our current sultanate. People loved her interactive display with layered transparencies to show the layers of the tughra. It was also lovely to see friends recognized for their work and two peers raised that I know personally, Mistress Molly and Sir Irwin and both were surprised!

3. Finding a Cause was a surprise to me but gives me something actionable to do in the coming years.  I had spent some time learning about the CAWS (Cannon Advanced Warning System) from Baroness Amani who created it as an alert system via text prior to each cannon blast for those with PTSD or other sensory issues.  Volunteers stay next to the cannon team to send the text alert out just prior to the blast.  If you were not aware, you can sign up for this service or to volunteer or donate to the CAWS at Silvertree Souq.  Sadly, this system has not been adopted or promoted by Pennsic as a whole. BUT IT SHOULD BE.  Why?  It has been made clear that some people really love the cannons and they will stay.  BUT Some of us who don’t even have battlefield noise related PTSD still jump out of our skins when it goes off and even that adrenaline dump really isn’t as bad as a child having a meltdown or someone who has a legitimate medical issue.  They can’t just “get over it”, they can’t always “walk away” or “calm down”.  I personally witnessed and heard about several very severe reactions from Veterans who were not made aware that cannons were even on the site, much less that they would be going off multiple times per day.  This is unacceptable in a society that values courtesy and the veterans that make up a large portion of our society definitely deserve so much more than just courtesy.  I saw many other issues related to ADA and inclusion for those with disabilities that I will be following up with as well but I want to start with a simple list and I ask you to lend your voice to the cause.  I will be making more requests through the year, especially in winter when I have down time but we need to contact those is charge of Pennsic planning on the SCA side, the BOD, and the Cooper’s Lake staff to request some simple changes that will make vacation more of a pleasure and less of a hell, even for a portion of the time, for some of our members.  These are my initial ideas that should be very simple, easy to implement, and maybe just need someone with more leverage than I to ask for them or many of us to increase the volume!  Feel free to send me other suggestions.

-Request that a prominent notice is posted in the registration tent at least that “Cannons are used on site and fired from the battlefield many times per day.  To receive advance warning of Cannon firings, sign up for CAWS at Silvertree Souq or Nordic Traders” (even better if CAWS sign up was an option at gate or on registration)

-Request the simple modification of an air horn signal just before cannon firing- this is done at other wars for the equestrian community and I would think we value our vets as much as our horses.  This small consideration would warn those that aren’t signed up for CAWS ahead of time.  (If this is a budget issue I will personally supply the air horns)

-Request that a Cannon warning and information for CAWS be included in the site book prominently.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Image result for caws pennsic

Finally, the top two…

So, why confessions of an addict? These last two are what I crave, and chase, and obsess over. What keeps me up at night and motivates all the work.

2. Chasing the magic is what I call the hunt for the 10 seconds that makes it all worth while. There were a few magic moments this year around bardic circles, resting in my tent through a rainstorm, watching a fire alone in the wee hours of the last morning, dancing, and in sharing fellowship. The Baron and Baroness of Bright Hills hosted a fabulous party for their last war as landed baronage that was full of fellowship and laughter and opportunity to get lost in the music of Ishtar and dance for my home group that for the most part didn’t know this was something I did. 😉  The Delores bardic broke up early with heavy rain but under their common tent I had a chance to reconnect with the amazing Master John Lyttleton and sing for him and thank him for helping cultivate this voice in me. I also was able to deliver the Laurel Kaftan to Mistress Rowan Berran McDowell and she was ecstatic. This one was a labor of love and I never once wearied in the 80 hours of its making because it became a meditation on the kindness and encouragement she has shown to me and so many others over the half of my SCA time that I have known her.

1. “Brain on fire” is what I call the excited, can’t get to sleep, buzzing of ideas that comes from spending time around creative people.  The people I can geek out with and who understand both the magic of the “aha” moment and the spark of a new idea or a totally new take on an old idea.  I was not tired at all driving home this year because I had brain on fire and was churning out ideas and audio recording them while I drove.  This is the “high” that I chase while the moments of magic are the “flow” that is also found when performing or expressively dancing or intensely absorbed in a project implementing a new idea- when time flies and next thing you know it is the end of the day and you haven’t stopped to eat.  It may not be good for the blood sugar but it certainly acts like a drug and one that I don’t mind saying that I am totally hooked on.  And I want more.  I will keep on working to have more moments of both.

Goal for this year- Continue “upping my game” but this year I want to focus on my level of performance because now I have felt some moments of best and I want more of that also… also working on my masterwork project, it is coming along in baby steps but needs presentation which thanks to lots of ideas I now have an idea for. 🙂

Objectives-I want accountability and feedback so feel free to challenge me to any new piece this year and let me know how to make it better!

Memorize one new song a month and prepare it for best level performance*. (continuing 4th year, getting a good repertoire now just need a list to remember what I remember)

Work up one story per month and prepare it for best level performance*. (failed on this one last year due to life but I’m back at it and some stories may work for real life to)

*Practice best level performance- breath control, planned and practiced projection, pitch, emphasis, emotion, dynamic range- until it becomes ingrained. (now practicing 5 hours per week so this is improving)

Complete one piece of garb each month. (continuing and working toward the masterwork)

Complete one non-garb sewing or other craft project each month. ( working on this one, starting with trying to do at least 3 repairs or special cleanings a week)

Work more on historical dance- specifically adding at least 2 hours of practice per week. (new this year)

Rose and Gold Greek

Gold and Rose Greek-

A peplos fashioned from a vintage silk sari- something I have meant to do for a while but ended up being far more complicated than it should… this involved lots of cutting and piecing to get the borders where I wanted them and in appropriate locations for greek.

Worn depicting a goddess for this event thus the symbology…



Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Metallics

June 2017

Fabric: 100% silk (hand like organza) vintage silk sari in a rose color with gold and black block printing.

Pattern: draped on form

Year: 500 BCE

Notions: silk and gold thread

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials (albeit not saris in greece), machine sewn seams hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 8 hours Total

First worn: September 23rd for battlefield bardic scenario at Battle on the Bay

Total: $25 vintage silk sari & notions from stash


Historical inspiration images…

Figurine of Aphrodite playing with Eros, from Tanagra, late 4th century BC (terracotta) by Greek School, (4th century BC)

Copy of a Greek bronze statue of 375/374–360/359 B.C. by Kephisodotos

The sculptural type of a woman wearing a peplos becomes prominent during the second quarter of the fifth century B.C., especially in small bronzes. Contemporary works in terracotta on this scale are exceedingly rare. It is possible that this piece served as a model for the preparation of molds from which bronze representations would have been cast.

Ancient Greek statue of a woman with blue and gilt garment, fan and sun hat, from Tanagra, 325-300 BC

Traces of paint depicting embroidered patterns on the peplos of an Archaic kore

The willowy shape and the draping of the fabric on top of the maiden’s high, “melon” hairstyle are typically South Italian. The statuette was originally brightly painted.
3rd century BC (Hellenistic)

Greek terracotta statuette of a dancing maenad, 3rd century B.C. Made in Taranto. Metropolitan Museum of Art


Plaited Apron

The plaited or smocked apron is seen during many centuries but turns up a lot during the 16th century in Germany and creates a lovely decorative accessory to show off one’s needlework.  This apron has both smocking at the top and a drawn thread work hem all the way around, entirely hand sewn with linen thread on linen ground.  If you don’t have he patience for this I will be offering this style of apron in my etsy shop but it will be dear as befitting the amount of time that went into this. 🙂

I highly recommend the online tutorials and classes of Genoveva von Lubeck at Germanrenaissance.net for all manner of lovely handwork- she was lucky enough to grow up doing this and now shares it with patience and a love of the art with grateful students around the known world.

plaited-apron-full plaited-apron-smocking plaited-apron-drawn-thread-hem

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Holes

May 2016

Fabric: 100% linen- handkerchief weight

Pattern: Class instructions from Genoveva von Lubeck, based on historical examples of plaiting and drawn thread work

Year: 16th century

Notions: linen thread

How historically accurate is it? 100% given accurate materials and hand sewn throughout

Hours to complete: 30 hours of handsewing

First worn: September 2016

Total: $20 fabric remnant, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…

german-1530 drawn-thread-and-smocking  1529-german

Elizabethan Chemise


This is an Elizabethan Chemise that I finally got around to, pieces were cut out forever so it could have counted for the Jan “procrastination” challenge also, for the Historically Sew Monthly February 2016 challenge… need to get a picture with it on- it wore very well but the camera I thought I got pictures with did not save them 😦

The Challenge: Tucks and Pleats- February

Fabric: Linen, linen thread

Pattern: Drafted from other fitted chemise and shirts that fit me well, pleating set to fit bands

Year: 1530-1600

Notions: cotton twill tape for ties

How historically accurate is it? Appropriate fabrics, construction details from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion but less fancy- easy care washable plain pleats for this one but still entirely hand sewn with felled seams in linen thread

Hours to complete: Total: 3   (Cutting and Piecing: 1, Hand Sewing:8   Setting Pleats: 1)

First worn: Bright Hills Baronial Birthday, February 13, 2016

Total cost: $24   fabric and supplies from my stash, buttons and thread unknown


1510 Tudor Gown Grey

Period Correct Clothing to Fit Your Style… 

  • Tudor Gown of cotton jacquard and faux fur
  • Cotton twill lining
  • Petticoat of shot silk
  • Machine sewn inner seams
  • Hand finished (hems, edging, and eyelets)
  • Cotton was used for comfort and washability- this gets worn when it is much hotter than old England
  • Minimal boning in open channels so it can be removed for machine washing
  • This project was a less formal Tudor Gown I made with patterns drafted by combining the Tudor Tailor underkirtle and my body block
  • This is one project for my A&S 50 Challenge, 50 things from my stash, since all the fabrics aside from the fur were already in my stash…
  • 2017 Update- I added fur trim all around (tacked on for washing) and made a fur lined wool partlet which I LOVE- so soft and snuggly!

Photo updates:

Photo by Baron Bardulf Rauen

Photo by Baron Bardulf Rauen

Photo by Baron Bardulf Rauen

Photo by Baron Bardulf Rauen

Grey Tudor with swords

Photography by Baron Bardulf Rauen

Tudor gowns

Photography by Baron Bardulf Rauen

Inspiration for early Tudor Gown with narrow fur cuff sleeves-


1500 Elizabeth of York

Jean Hey (Master of Moulins). Portrait of Margaret of Austria

Jean Hey (Master of Moulins). Portrait of Margaret of Austria

Inspiration for fur lined partlet-



fur-partlet full coverage

fur-partlet full coverage



Venetian 1500 Gamurra


Portrait profile

Photography by Baron Bardulf Rauen

This is my new undergown for 1500 Venetian, created for Atlantian Twelfth Night and also for the Historically Sew Monthly January challenge…

The Challenge: Foundations- January

Fabric: Chemise of cotton voile, Gamurra of green and gold jacquard linen and rayon blend, bodice lined in 2 layers of cotton canvas, eyelets sewn with linen thread

Pattern: Drafted and refitted from my fitted body block to an under bust bodice, sleeves cut down from my sleeve sloper

Year: 1500 venice

Notions: gold braid trim,  gold ribbons (replacing now with silk and points), black ribbon for mourning, luceted lacing cord 

How historically accurate is it? As close to the portraits as I could get with little evidence from extant garments other than chemises, each decision regarding construction and cut were done after comparing multiple images,  my neckline is not quite as broad but that was based on coverage and support needed in the bodice which is unboned but is the foundation garment

Hours to complete: Total: 32   (Cutting and fitting: 6, Sewing: 12, Eyelets: 14)

First worn: Atlantian Kingdom Twelfth Night, January 10, 2015

Total cost:$102   fabric and supplies from my stash other than new silk ribbon and aigrets just acquired to add on,  estimate $24 voile, $48 linen blend jacquard (yay for half price remnant bin), trim and thread unknown,  when added $26 silk ribbons and $4 aiglets

venetian full length left

Photography by Baron Bardulf Rauen

And the few construction pics that I took…

Cutting out sleeves after bodice back got a centered motif

Cutting out sleeves after bodice back got a centered motif

Creating eyelets on bodice

Creating eyelets on bodice

Closer view of eyelet construction

Closer view of eyelet construction

Trim and shoulder eyelets

Trim and shoulder eyelets

First stage done, time to finish sleeves

First stage done, time to finish sleeves

And the inspiration images:

Squared neckline but higher than some, love the ribbon detail and the black ribbon for mourning, her necklace also inspired one of mine

young venetian woman Durer

Photography by Baron Bardulf Rauen

Squared neckline and more ribbon and sleeve detail, fine gold work on edge of chemise

Supposed portrait of Bianca Sforza,an illegitimate daughter of Lodovico il Moro,c.1500

Photography by Baron Bardulf Rauen

Squared neckline with longer bodice, could be front closing with ribbon ties as on sleeves, looped and draped necklace, headband with stone

Leonardo da Vinci, La Belle Ferroniere, 1490.

Leonardo da Vinci, La Belle Ferroniere, 1490.

Ludovica Tornabuoni, by Domenico Ghirlandaio

Photography by Baron Bardulf Rauen

Rounded neckline with short bodice, both layers front closing, undergown closing edge to edge, overgown closing in wide V to show undergown, interesting partially sewn sleeves on overgown


Upping my game challenge continues…

This year on my annual “slow down time to go camping for 2 weeks mostly immersed in the past and gaining great campfire therapy in bardic circles” I was inspired…  I am inspired every year and want to do something new- I am also disappointed every year that I haven’t gotten to the things I would have liked to have had done before that year.  So, this year I applied my planner brain to my hobby and made some simple objectives.  For those of you who have been through my trainings you know that objectives are measurable, specific, and reasonable.  They differ from goals which are broader things you want by breaking them down into the things to do to get what you want.  Now, before anyone lambastes me for applying logic to my fun life and thus making it no fun, I assure you that I started this with the belief that getting things done will improve my overall enjoyment of my hobby and create less of the disappointment next year with not having projects done that I wanted done.  And in tiny baby steps it already is having that effect!  3 months in and I am loving the results…in fact they have started exceeding expectations… but I am getting ahead of myself.

What started with a goal of “Upping my game” was focused by the fact that I most enjoy beautiful garb and song and wanted to get things done and expand my repertoire in both areas.  So, I created two simple objectives-

1. Finish one piece of garb each month

2. Memorize a new song each month- prepped for performance

The results so far?  With August being only half a month after I got back I still got a set done that month and have been a little ahead of myself since then.  I have also teetered on the one piece of garb being pre-1600 or not since I do other periods and have deadlines for some of those pieces… Currently my freshly memorized songs have been all by Heather Dale- partly what drifted to the front and wanted to be learned with a special request deadline thrown in and a museum program deadline.  I though that as I go I should keep track of what has been the result f the challenge so far.

August- finished Geometric Tunic with hand felled seams, memorized “My Only My Own” by Heather Dale, posted video with both for the demanding daughter…

September- finished Viking apron dress with hand felled seams, memorized “Lily Maid” by Heather Dale and “The Old Duke” as a marriage proposal request for a friend

October- cut and started a rain cloak that I’ve been kicking myself for 5 years not having done, got sidetracked by fixing a regency gown and making a Civil War era Mourning Gown for Halloween, memorized “Skeleton Woman” by Heather Dale for use at our Tales and Treats program with ghost stories and other ghostly/bonesy songs

Not quite Halloween yet, but I was afraid I’d start losing track of these.  Some will overlap with my A&S 50 challenges as I start doing clothiers workshops but more modern projects are coming up on the event deadline radar…

Regency Pelisse for a Nov presentation, Victorian winter wear for Victorian Holiday Faire, early Italian Ren for Twelfth night, the double layer Viking Coat I’ve been meaning to make for COLD, the portrait reproduction fur lined early Tudor gown that keeps me up at night…