Ultralight Kirtle

Counting this for the Historically Sew Monthly January 2022 challenge… which was an anniversary challenge celebrating 10 years to choose something from the 2013 list.  This one could work for several of those: #UFO #Under it All #Peasant #Lacing #Metal #Color Challenge Green  #HistoricalSewMonthly2022

The Challenge: Anniversary- January

Fabric: Two linen curtain panels from the thrift store and some cotton twill from my stash

Pattern: Drafted from my old body block (maybe 2012 eek!) with some redraping help from a friend (at a sewing gathering about 2019?) then it sat in the UFO pile for a while

Year: 16th Century

Notions: metal drapery rings, naturel linen tape for lacing and trim, matching green thread, 4 cable ties for boning

How historically accurate is it? It has a good look overall (although I’m not in love with the pull of lacing rings or the gaping at the front partly due to pandemic pounds) I also intentionally made this as a wearable mock-up to test as few layers and little boning as possible that could be thrown in the washer for wear at crazy hot events- it does work for that and is very comfortable and supportive for all day wear.

Hours to complete: Total: 30 

First worn: April 2022, when I loaned it out for a Shakespeare demo, worn by me May 2022

Total cost: $12   

Thanks to Shaina Cara and her casual event photos- I caught her eyeing me so struck a “fete at bermondsey” pose 😉 ie my favorite painting showing a span of classes and clothes and behavior all in a crowd together!

Marcus Gheeraerts the Elder – Festival at Bermondsey- 1571 public domain

Top Ten for Pennsic 48- “the wild ride”

The list for this year has been a long time coming- even longer than last year- because this year was literally the craziest, busiest, most breathless year ever and my re-entry to the day to day was rough.  As in, we just wrapped up Labor day weekend and I still don’t have everything cleaned and put away which I normally get done within a week.  I have tried to include some of the many many Thank you’s of which I am sure I missed some and will follow up with photos for items that were crafted for me and catch more of you with personal “Thank you’s” and hugs!

In the tradition of posting a list of top ten moments from Pennsic, I am sharing from all aspects that I loved then adding notes for my own tradition of setting goals and objectives each year as Pennsic is my SCA “new year” so to speak…

10. Crazy Schedule is Crazy– this I need to remember and reflect on next year.  In my defense, I had filled up my schedule with teaching and performance and becoming a soldier before I was given a writ 3 weeks before Pennsic.  Normally 3 weeks would be a lot of time (and my daughter warned them that I would want to plan) but this is also during my busy season- working 11 hour days up till the weekend that I leave and I had 120 quail eggs ready to hatch the Monday after the writ was given so I had my schedule pretty packed before and during… (Thank you to all those who were involved in the shenanigans- and getting both my daughter and husband there, he was well disguised enough that she thought to herself “who is that guy creeping up behind my mom?” even though she knew he was on site…)


9.Teaching and learning- still and probably always in the top ten, it is why I am in this to begin with. This year I taught a total of 9 classes although I was scheduled for 11.

  • “Dressed for the Sultan intro to 16th century Ottoman Turkish clothing”
  • “Coaching and the Art of Constructive Criticism”
  • “Whatever Shall I Wear?” Newcomer’s Garb class
  • “Are you wearing a tablecloth? Intro to Greek garb” at the Early Period Arts and Sciences day hosted by Clan Praechain
  • “Greek garb make and take”
  • “Yoga for Rest and Relaxation” hosted again this year in Atlantian Royal camp before dinner M,W,F of both weeks (although I had to get a sub for the last Wed and Fri due to the ceremony and leaving early for a family reunion)

8. Volunteering- This is always a part of my Pennsic, although the service looks different from year to year depending on who needs what and asks for help.  Again this year for the Children’s fete as Queen Elinor from Brave and singing with the bards as we valiantly attempt to out-sing a barnful of children.  Also setting up the Performing Arts tent as we finished the stage, erected curtains, added stairs, and started seating.  I had another shift to work and Lady Scholastica Joycours (Atlantia you should be proud of her outstanding service as Dean of Performing Arts at Pennsic) wisely suggested working the light board during the Wed night shift after Atlantian court- I would have attended Mistress Marian of Heatherdale’s show regardless but this was a welcome respite after the elevation and the buildup to that event.  I even got to jump up and sing a couple pieces to fill a lull on stage with a full tent which helped unload the last of the energy and pure adrenaline that had kept me running for most of Pennsic.


7. Performing- This year I finally did a stage show on my own, only half an hour and sadly more scatterbrained than I should have been but I think I was borderline to heat exhaustion that day coming directly from the A&S display where I had been displaying, performing in the middle with the Janissary band, and enjoying a wonderful surprise court for Mistress Vadoma.  I also was part of the “Not Your Typical Atlantian Thugs” concert, proving the graciousness of Mistress Rosalind as I sang a new to me piece of hers, flubbed and replaced words on the fly, with her in the audience smiling along.  The bit of diddling to wrap up my set went over very well with the greatest audience engagement, as it should be with a tent full of bards. 😉


6. Joining the Janissary- this was a big commitment this year and it was awesome- I wasn’t sure what I had gotten myself into with the rest of my busy schedule and spent weeks leading up memorizing the songs in Turkish and making my uniform- that had to get done before elevation garb although a lot of finishing came with me to war because I ran out of time.  This was answered at the first rehearsal when just the brass warming up threw me right back into my marching band days, but now a more specialized immersion version!  The ultimate compliment was from someone I always secretly wanted to impress before I became a peer who stopped me in uniform on my way back to camp to tell me how impressive the Janissary band was- so I guess it can take a an army of friends to make an impression that we can’t on our own.  My voice did pay the price for singing as loud as possible as a guy for a few days straight so I am seriously looking into playing Zurna next year.  You have been warned. (Thanks to Master Osman for keeping steady pressure through hints, questions, and tastes of geekery until I was hooked.  Also thanks to Ella and Keylan who made this so much fun- I look forward to their children’s book “The sleepiest Janissary” which is apparently about yours truly mustering as a soldier for the field battle on 2 hours of sleep after my vigil.  Also blessings unto Bambi, the goddess of Turkish coffee, that made this experience truly sublime 🙂


5. Vigil- was a wonderful evening with a grand bardic and party that I got to start off the first hour of until their majesties arrived to place me on vigil. A huge Thank You to everyone who visited and shared their wisdom and advice with me or a song or tale around the fire. I do not even know all of those who were a part of planning and preparing this evening but I owe thanks to all of camp Southwind for hosting and especially Mistress Johanna and Duchess Simone for coordinating, Lady Deirdre and Lord Llewellyn for setting up the food, Sir Alherin, Abigail, and I am sure many others for cooking, Master Ruaidhri for brewing, Baroness Amani for the lovely gold printed silk Salwar and Zibin with pins, Lady Sarah for the gomlek, Lady Ella for the cotton undersalwar, and Mistress Michel for the slippers.

I requested a traditional all night vigil and although the party wound down eventually a few friends came back to visit and I eventually left the tent in the wee hours of the morning to join company around the fire for an hour or so with Finn, Richard and Evelyn who valiantly tried to stay the course with me but eventually gave in to sleep.  The last was Master Dahrien (which will surprise no other bards who know him) and when I said I was ready to turn into a pumpkin he helped move chairs under cover and bid me good night then I prepped for some sleep and stayed by myself at the fire till I saw the edge of dawn creeping on the horizon.  I finally went back to my tent and found a text from Dahrien offering to finish sitting my vigil for me, that being a service and him being a pelican.  Thanks for the offer Dahrien. I took a nap until the wake up crew was set to arrive and rouse me into a soldier to muster at the battlefield.

The photo below is with my dear friend Sir Finn who was one of our daughter’s first babysitters, a friend form college who used to make fun of me for being in the SCA but is now a knight and has served as a landed baron in the Outlands.


4. The time between- Master Richard said he was very pleased that I had a few days gap between my vigil and ceremony at Pennsic because he had experienced the same (although his vigil was a surprise) and found that it gave him time to reflect on the change in his role in this game of ours.  I wasn’t sure how much time I would have for reflecting given my already packed schedule but these days are when this whole thing started feeling more real. It was still a flurry of activity with classes and performances and dance but there was a cast of the responsibility to keep this magic alive, to provide inspiration and support, to work for the good and continuation of the dream.  I think I always strove toward this ideal, but now I was preparing to accept it as duty, as responsibility, as much a job as a calling.

3. Elevation to the Order of the Laurel- you might have thought this would be number one but in my mind it was not.  The ceremony was wonderful and I managed to maintain some dignity and not ugly cry through the whole thing.  Thank you to the many worthies who spoke for me- Duchess Simone with words from Mistress Barb-hah-rah as a Laurel, Mistress Johanna with words from Mistress Gianetta as a Pelican, Sir Kollack as a Knight, Master Giacomo as a MOD, and Countess Rowan as a Lady of the Rose. I wore the undersalwar finished by Lady Ella, Silk block printed salwar from Baroness Amani (and carried Turkish Prayer beads she had gifted me), a linen Gomlek made by Lady Sarah, a linen anteri finished by several of my campmates including Mistress Johanna, a watered silk anteri finished by Lady Clara with woven buttons made at Pennsic by Mistress Blitha, and a Tarpus made by Lady Ella.

There were lovely presentations of the Laurel kashbasti (turkish headband) embroidered by Mistress Vadoma, the ceremonial kaftan finished by my daughter Evelyn de Trees, the medallion (scrimshaw on wire weaving from Mistress Barb-hah-rah), and finally a sash (intentionally made so I could use it with many periods) embroidered with Laurel leaves and Linden leaves by each person who attended the vigil, this was by my request to Lady Ella who came up with the perfect item and presented it in lovely fashion as well.  This brings me to my next point…


2. Miracle of Many Hands, Many Hearts– Something crazy happened, it started on the day I was given my writ but continued right up to the middle of the ceremony.  That day, there were immediate congratulations and an outpouring of joy which continued over the month.  There also were offers to help and to create, and organize, and help pull this all together.    Not everyone may see this as a miracle, but I have always said that service is love manifest, and I am so honored that so many of you wanted to be a part of this wonderful moment.  There was work in advance, from those coordinating vigil and ceremony and preparing their parts mentioned above but also a whole team of people who just jumped in with “how can I help?” and joined me for sewing weekends and evenings leading up to Pennsic.  Many thanks to all of you who jumped in ahead of time and helped create all the amazing things listed above, also those of you who made things happen at war that I never could have expected and were wonderful surprises- Johanna and other camp mates taking sewing out of my hands, handling the vigil prep and setup and cleanup when I was too dazed to help.  Blitha following me back to camp after my class and showing me the method she found for diagonally weaving buttons- then just saying “give me your supplies and I’ll see what I can do” then having finished buttons appear on my bed a couple days later!  Thea and Scholastica dropping by camp to recruit talent for the reader’s theater (the got Evelyn for the leading role) and Thea asking about prep that needed doing then taking all of my token supplies and creating a pile of lovely tokens that I have seen worn so many times since- a sign that others loved them as much as I did!  Every effort and contribution was a surprise, a delight, and led me to the last…

1. Love is Humbling- especially for me.  Ya’ll made me cry.  A LOT.  I can never express enough thanks for every kind word and action, only know that each of them is impressed into my memory and my heart.  I don’t understand how or why I could deserve such and outpouring of love and can only strive in my continued service to be worthy of the faith you have placed in me.

And the biggest thanks of all to go my daughter who made excuses to show up for both the surprise of the writ, and for all of Pennsic and was a steadfast support and dedicated seamstress throughout.  From providing hankies, and arms to lean on, speed sewing, hugs and hugs and hugs, and mental breaks to debrief.  You are an amazing young woman and I am blessed every day to see how you use your talent and dedication to make your dreams come true!




Goal for this year- Continue “upping my game” but this year I want to focus on my level of performance because now I have felt some moments of best and I want more of that also… also working on my masterwork project, it is coming along in baby steps but needs presentation which thanks to lots of ideas I now have an idea for. 🙂

Objectives-I want accountability and feedback so feel free to challenge me to any new piece this year and let me know how to make it better!

Memorize one new song a month and prepare it for best level performance*. (continuing 5th year, getting a good repertoire now just need a list to remember what I remember)

Work up one story per month and prepare it for best level performance*. (failed on this one last year due to life but I’m back at it and some stories may work for real life to)

*Practice best level performance- breath control, planned and practiced projection, pitch, emphasis, emotion, dynamic range- until it becomes ingrained. (now practicing 5 hours per week so this is improving)

Complete one piece of garb each month. (continuing and working toward the masterwork)

Complete one non-garb sewing or other craft project each month. ( working on this one, starting with trying to do at least 3 repairs or special cleanings a week)


Top Ten for Pennsic 47- “confessions of an addict”

It appears I missed last year entirely, I’m guessing due to being between moves with no computer, but I’m back at it this year because the list is good!  And this one got started then left in drafts for a very long time.  It is now well past Pennsic but the observations still stand.

In the tradition of posting a list of top ten moments from Pennsic, I am sharing from all aspects that I loved then adding notes for my own tradition of setting goals and objectives each year as Pennsic is my SCA “new year” so to speak…

10. Camp Set up was done in record time this year– in part because we had another barony added to our camp and more hands at the ready. Camp common tent, kitchen, shower, sheet walls, even the woodshed were all done by Sunday evening. As it should be. We are all here on vacation after all and my classes started Monday. The years that camp setup extended through half of the first week we’re painful enough for me to start thinking of building a vardo and going out on my own.

Opening ceremonies postchat time, photo by Amani

9. Down time. Yes, I do have some at Pennsic. Especially the first week as I slowly disconnect from the rush of the every day, recover from long work days leading up to Pennsic, and slow down, just slow down. It is a luxury to reset your circadian rhythms, wake when you wake, enjoy frog call and bird song, music and drums. To leave technology and instant communication away so no one can reach you unless they make the effort to find you in person. This reminds us of our natural mode of communication and it feels so right. Despite the heat or wet or mud of some years, the slowing down is always there and is made so much more valuable by having two weeks to let it fully take effect.

tent view

My Favorite View to wake up to in the morning…

8. Bearing the memory of those we have lost, most recently Baron Taliesynne Nychymwrh yr Anghyfannedd Llanrhyddlad, otherwise known by me as Papa Taly, whose household I was honored to be a part of- Unycorne’s Hospyce. Taly received his AOA the year I was born and was one of those SCA founders that had always been and would always be, albeit he now watches us from among the stars. He had a quiet demeanor and eyes that belied the strength and power within. I wanted to write something for Taly but my thoughts turned more toward where we have come from, how we weather the current winds of change and turmoil, and where we are headed. Thus I shared this new piece at many circles with a dedication to Papa Taly, the Herald who helped me find my name, who laughed at my enthusiasm for clothing and getting “the look”, for wild places and their secrets shared, the joy of plants and botanical latin, the brightest light of our elders.

In the space of a moment when time falls away and the mist of memory rises,
You find yourself in the vast halls of a place, surrounded by your chosen kindred.
Each of them sees their own halls around, each wears their various raiment,
Their interests and arts are as many as they yet sharing has brought all together.

Are you awake or is this a dream? Touch, taste, and smell all you see.
For each gentle you greet with a smile and embrace tells you that this dream is real.

The vault of these halls was lifted by those whose vision and toil came before us,
they wanted a place for virtue to thrive and the weight of the world to escape.
In goodwill they opened the doors to their halls and welcomed all as nobles,
with wisdom and joy these builders of our dream crafted the halls of our elders.

Who were the first to give us this dream? Their imagination still surrounds us.
With their service and art they made manifest this fantasy that you can feel.

Now greet each new gentle to join in our game and welcome them into our halls.
Clothe them and feed them and teach them our arts for one day they to will be family.
Our young know the joy of play become real and keeping the magic of childhood,
they learn at the knee of the masters of arts and grow in the joy of service.

How strong is a dream that lives past today? Five score years and still blooming.
Chivalry, courtesy, honor, and love. Our gifts to a new generation.

Now the old and the young, the page and the peer may dance and sing together,
weaving the magic of a place called the dream where values bind us together.
When threatened our halls from within or without, we’ll rally and stand as one.
And raise up our voices to far magistrates that righteousness may yet be done.

Are you yet willing to fight for this dream, to ensure it dwells not in darkness?
Well, the choice it is mine, and the choice can be yours, to carry the light of our elders!

Lady Faye in 16th C Turkish clothing holds up a printing block to demonstrate block printing.

Teaching block printing at Silvertree Souq, photo by Amani

7. Teaching and learning are what got me involved in the SCA in the first place and keep me engaged and planning. This year was a big teaching year with the Dressed for the Sultan classes and workshops leading up to Atlantia’s current reign, it is always fun when someone gets the populace excited about something that you already love to do and you get to share! It seemed fitting to add this class to the usual lineup that I have been teaching at Pennsic. This year the “Are you wearing a tablecloth? Intro to Greek garb” and the “Greek garb make and take” were not as full so I may feel less guilty about retiring them eventually. The “Coaching and the Art of Constructive Criticism” class was also more lightly attended albeit with some good discussion but I feel this is so needed that it should stay, maybe with a revamp for more discussion and practice. The “Dressed for the Sultan intro to 16th century Ottoman Turkish clothing” class was packed and folks kept filling in, albeit some left after the first hour to get to other classes. The difficulty here was getting through the many slides of lovely pictures, which worked well for only half the attendees that read the description about bringing a mobile device to follow along with the slides. I will probably offer this again but need to either print more photo books or request an evening slot for the projector to work well in a tent. This year I also added yoga classes with a coteacher although I ended up leading the bulk of them. This was before dinner yoga in the Atlantian royal camp. I need yoga at least every other day anyway so I probably will continue to offer this and it was so much fun to have some brand new yogis that discovered how this could help resolve the pain of setup and walking miles per day. I also added a demonstration/class for block printing textiles at Silvertree Souq where they were offering blocks and silks for sale. We may keep some drop in printing sessions for next year.

Teaching yoga at Atlantian Royal Camp


6. Displaying for the known world Arts and Sciences was a first for me but lots of fun to share Ottoman Turkish clothing with so many people, from those for whom it was new and surprising to those who were delighted to find it in the display to those who actively saught me out. I tried again for a predominantly visual display that would encourage others to make more historically accurate middle eastern garb. My clothing rack included samples of several construction and decoration techniques labeled and arranged from most accurate to most expedited.

pennsic display

5. Performing was not new but different, especially on the main stage of the performing arts tent. I joined the bardic arts expo again this year with 2 pieces and later that night was part of the “Not your typical Atlantian thugs” concert. I knew I wanted to share Dierdre’s song in the Atlantian concert as it is written by mistress Rosalind who was not able to attend pennsic this year. This was the first piece of hers that I learned after she requested I sing some of her music a few years ago when first she heard me sing. It spoke to me and is one that I had not heard others performing. For the afternoon expo I was undecided but wanted pieces big enough to fill the tent. All morning “Oh Death” kept creeping into my head as if Anne were tapping me on the shoulder and requesting I sing her song. So this was my first piece of the day, followed by “As I Roved out” to round up two period pieces for the expo (master Richard was saying I should do more period pieces and I had to remind him that originally that was all I ever did). It felt like my stage performance was far and away better than anything I did around a fire. I may just take up the challenge from Scholastica and do a full set of my own on the stage next year. You have been warned.

4. Exceptional Work was seen throughout the war both in acts of service and in the arts. I thoroughly enjoyed taking part in the A&S display and the little bit I got around to see was fantastic. I especially loved being next to baroness Tala with her display on the research and creation of the tughra for our current sultanate. People loved her interactive display with layered transparencies to show the layers of the tughra. It was also lovely to see friends recognized for their work and two peers raised that I know personally, Mistress Molly and Sir Irwin and both were surprised!

3. Finding a Cause was a surprise to me but gives me something actionable to do in the coming years.  I had spent some time learning about the CAWS (Cannon Advanced Warning System) from Baroness Amani who created it as an alert system via text prior to each cannon blast for those with PTSD or other sensory issues.  Volunteers stay next to the cannon team to send the text alert out just prior to the blast.  If you were not aware, you can sign up for this service or to volunteer or donate to the CAWS at Silvertree Souq.  Sadly, this system has not been adopted or promoted by Pennsic as a whole. BUT IT SHOULD BE.  Why?  It has been made clear that some people really love the cannons and they will stay.  BUT Some of us who don’t even have battlefield noise related PTSD still jump out of our skins when it goes off and even that adrenaline dump really isn’t as bad as a child having a meltdown or someone who has a legitimate medical issue.  They can’t just “get over it”, they can’t always “walk away” or “calm down”.  I personally witnessed and heard about several very severe reactions from Veterans who were not made aware that cannons were even on the site, much less that they would be going off multiple times per day.  This is unacceptable in a society that values courtesy and the veterans that make up a large portion of our society definitely deserve so much more than just courtesy.  I saw many other issues related to ADA and inclusion for those with disabilities that I will be following up with as well but I want to start with a simple list and I ask you to lend your voice to the cause.  I will be making more requests through the year, especially in winter when I have down time but we need to contact those is charge of Pennsic planning on the SCA side, the BOD, and the Cooper’s Lake staff to request some simple changes that will make vacation more of a pleasure and less of a hell, even for a portion of the time, for some of our members.  These are my initial ideas that should be very simple, easy to implement, and maybe just need someone with more leverage than I to ask for them or many of us to increase the volume!  Feel free to send me other suggestions.

-Request that a prominent notice is posted in the registration tent at least that “Cannons are used on site and fired from the battlefield many times per day.  To receive advance warning of Cannon firings, sign up for CAWS at Silvertree Souq or Nordic Traders” (even better if CAWS sign up was an option at gate or on registration)

-Request the simple modification of an air horn signal just before cannon firing- this is done at other wars for the equestrian community and I would think we value our vets as much as our horses.  This small consideration would warn those that aren’t signed up for CAWS ahead of time.  (If this is a budget issue I will personally supply the air horns)

-Request that a Cannon warning and information for CAWS be included in the site book prominently.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Image result for caws pennsic

Finally, the top two…

So, why confessions of an addict? These last two are what I crave, and chase, and obsess over. What keeps me up at night and motivates all the work.

2. Chasing the magic is what I call the hunt for the 10 seconds that makes it all worth while. There were a few magic moments this year around bardic circles, resting in my tent through a rainstorm, watching a fire alone in the wee hours of the last morning, dancing, and in sharing fellowship. The Baron and Baroness of Bright Hills hosted a fabulous party for their last war as landed baronage that was full of fellowship and laughter and opportunity to get lost in the music of Ishtar and dance for my home group that for the most part didn’t know this was something I did. 😉  The Delores bardic broke up early with heavy rain but under their common tent I had a chance to reconnect with the amazing Master John Lyttleton and sing for him and thank him for helping cultivate this voice in me. I also was able to deliver the Laurel Kaftan to Mistress Rowan Berran McDowell and she was ecstatic. This one was a labor of love and I never once wearied in the 80 hours of its making because it became a meditation on the kindness and encouragement she has shown to me and so many others over the half of my SCA time that I have known her.

1. “Brain on fire” is what I call the excited, can’t get to sleep, buzzing of ideas that comes from spending time around creative people.  The people I can geek out with and who understand both the magic of the “aha” moment and the spark of a new idea or a totally new take on an old idea.  I was not tired at all driving home this year because I had brain on fire and was churning out ideas and audio recording them while I drove.  This is the “high” that I chase while the moments of magic are the “flow” that is also found when performing or expressively dancing or intensely absorbed in a project implementing a new idea- when time flies and next thing you know it is the end of the day and you haven’t stopped to eat.  It may not be good for the blood sugar but it certainly acts like a drug and one that I don’t mind saying that I am totally hooked on.  And I want more.  I will keep on working to have more moments of both.

Goal for this year- Continue “upping my game” but this year I want to focus on my level of performance because now I have felt some moments of best and I want more of that also… also working on my masterwork project, it is coming along in baby steps but needs presentation which thanks to lots of ideas I now have an idea for. 🙂

Objectives-I want accountability and feedback so feel free to challenge me to any new piece this year and let me know how to make it better!

Memorize one new song a month and prepare it for best level performance*. (continuing 4th year, getting a good repertoire now just need a list to remember what I remember)

Work up one story per month and prepare it for best level performance*. (failed on this one last year due to life but I’m back at it and some stories may work for real life to)

*Practice best level performance- breath control, planned and practiced projection, pitch, emphasis, emotion, dynamic range- until it becomes ingrained. (now practicing 5 hours per week so this is improving)

Complete one piece of garb each month. (continuing and working toward the masterwork)

Complete one non-garb sewing or other craft project each month. ( working on this one, starting with trying to do at least 3 repairs or special cleanings a week)

Work more on historical dance- specifically adding at least 2 hours of practice per week. (new this year)

Not your grandma’s elastic waist

Ever wish you had gap less waistbands on your jeans or pants? Did your jeans fit great when you tried them on or first thing in the morning only to loosen through the day? Do your skinny jeans insist on pulling themselves and everything else down when you bend, sit, or squat in them? Are you just tired of pulling up your pants that fit when you bought them?

If the answer to any of these is YES then I need to share my easy quick fix that makes a perfect waistband. It doesn’t roll, fold, or most importantly gap! As you may have noticed from the title, it is elastic, but not used in the traditional way of replacing a drawstring in a casing.

My inspiration pants were these that I found on clearance a few years ago when visiting a Sam’s club with my mom. Of course being a short term item they were gone and never returned once I realized I loved this waistband and wanted to buy more.

So thanks to khakis&co for this idea! The secret is the elastic being slightly smaller than the denim band.

I have experimented with this method on a couple pants that were making me crazy, like these skinny jeans that excelled at pulling themselves down…

Sadly, the narrower elastic and the idea that I only needed it across the back only sort of fixed the problem.

This pair with elastic almost the same width as the waistband and almost the full length worked SO much better!

The method that works best is to stop at the end of the day with pants that are gaping and pinch the waist at either side to where it feels snug and check what this excess is at the full relaxed potential of the waistband. For me this usually has been around 1.5-2″ (ie pinching about 1/2″ on each side) at the end of the day for pants that had no gap in the morning.

You then want to measure from Just outside the button and buttonhole all the way around the interior waistband with each section laid smooth as you measure around.

Then, using elastic the same or almost the same width as the waistband, cut a length that matches your waistband measurement minus the pinched amount (2″ in my case) and keep an extra 1/2″ to tuck under the ends.

You then will start pinning with each end pinned with 1/4″ tucked under. Then flatten the waistband with those two pinned points held together. This will show you the folded middle point of your waistband and the folded middle point of your elastic, match these two points together and pin. Then use the same process to find each halfway point to match until you are comfortable that you have enough points to keep even tension as you sew. I like eighths as seen above, and that works well for hand or machine sewing.

When sewing, you want to hold each section taught so the elastic is stretched to match the fabric of the waistband. If machine sewing, be sure to use a little zigzag or woolly nylon thread so there is some give in your thread but stretching while sewing should help with this.

Easy peasy! No more gappy pants and not your grandma’s elastic waist.

I did all of my initial pairs hand sewing the edge of the elastic with a simple whipstitch to hold down the elastic edge all the way around. I showed my daughter who is in fashion school and the first thing she said was “Why did you hand sew this?” to which I really don’t have a good answer other than in my brain when I don’t want something to show on the outside I hand sew…a consequence of being a historical seamstress first. I also like portable projects and the repair pile is often that. On the upside, this proves you don’t need a machine to do this fix!

I guess I could machine sew it even if the top stitching would show since I never wear my pants with waistbands showing anyway and I could watch the outside while sewing to ensure it lined up with what is already there. It would mean removing or skipping over the beltloops which just seems like extra work. I like that I can fix a pair of pants by hand during an evening tv show and be pleased as punch when I wear them next and they stay put exactly where they should. 🙂

It’s the little things. I still need to figure out how to keep shirts perfectly in place when moving in them and without the tucked in look with leg wrapping shirt stays that my brother wore in the marines. That will be a real breakthrough!

Anteri cutting two ways

As I am busily cutting and sewing lots of Ottoman Turkish clothing before coronation I thought it was a great time to create some sew alongs or cut along in this case. I know the diagrams work for some folks but others need to see the real deal in progress. Here I will share a simplified all in one cut that can be done if you want to minimize seams (due to bulk or fragility) or keep a fabric or pattern as intact as possible. We can do this with the luxury of wide fabric!

First the fabric is washed, dried, ironed, and laid out folded in half twice. I always lay mine so the front faces out because it will have extra cuts to make the front neck deeper, the front scoops on the sleeves, and a cut down the front edge.
Here is the quarter folded fabric with the body measurements marked then connected for the style lines of the garment.


Next is the fabric with the main body cut all in one piece. Then we cut the front gores to fit, the left side extends from neck to hem as wide as it can be for the fabric we have left, the right side from hip or mid chest to hem.

Piecing left gore

Piecing left gore

Both goes are laid out on top to compare sides.


Here we compare this simplified cut to the period cut from narrower fabric (this is for a smaller person but also was cut from just 2 yards of leftover silk taffeta).

cut in one compared to period cut

cut in one compared to period cut

Here is the full layout with the period cut, a close up of the left side front gore and a close up of the right side front gore.

anteri period cut layout

anteri period cut layout

anteri period cut left side full length gore

anteri period cut left side full length gore

anteri period cut right side waist length gore

Anteri period cut right side waist length gore

Next is to sew them together with a plan for seam finishing and cut facings and lining if desired.

Anteri sewn

Anteri sewn with modest hip bump- serged edges will be felled under.


Silk Anteri sewn together- sides will be fitted to the body then finished with underarm gussets. The edges will be felled inside and the facings will be the blue silk.

Measuring facing- I’m using 6″ wide here to encase front gores and cutting around the hem curve.

Second row of facing to piece together for hem.

Facings sewn on- I press my fold down while they are flat, then sew on, turn in, and hand finish. All the current machine sewing will be hidden when this is finished.

Ottoman Turkish Gomleks

Historical Sew Monthly Jan/Feb challenge combo-

What the item is: Ottoman Turkish Gomlek
Material: silk/cotton voile
Pattern: geometric cut based on extant garments and body measurements
Year: 16th century
Notions: freshwater pearl, silk thread
How historically accurate is it? Accurate materials and sheerness, simplified cut for delicacy of fabric
Hours to complete: 8 originally, 2 for repairs
First worn: 2014?
Total cost: $30 originally, negligible for repairs

This challenge was difficult because I am in the middle of some original full garments. Then I repaired this silk gomlek of several tiny tears from wearing it while working and dancing before using it to cut a new one in a more durable cotton for the February challenge. Other layers coming soon!

Added note for blog- the beginning of the Turkish page will be up tonight for those of you awaiting class notes and handouts!

New Year, New Goals, and Sharing

With the new year my resolutions used to be like those of many- a soft goal that I jumped into enthusiastically that eventually faded as life got busy. A few years ago I decided to apply my training and planning know-how to my goals. I turned them into objectives- specific, measurable, with deadlines.

For 3 years now I’ve had the objective to memorize a song per month. I wanted more performance from memory but did not think I could memorize. This objective proved me wrong- I usually have half a dozen songs that I know I want to add to my repertoire and the rest are added as inspiration strikes. This keeps the goal feeling fluid but I still target and write down what I learned each month and now my repertoire is well over 40 songs because some months extras get added in. This year I added stories to my monthly target.

For sewing, the historical sew monthly has been great for motivation and keeping me on track for one project done each month. This one was definitely derailed with the last year of moving. 😦
But, now that moving is mostly done I’m jumping into a new year with the objective to finish one new project and one unfinished object project each month. I also want to do a mending or repair each week. Most of those are small and just get set aside for big sexy new projects… This will be their year. It will also help to clear bins that I moved full of mending and ufos! #HSM2018progress

I also want to improve blogging about projects to create dress diaries and tutorials- this post is testing an easier way to post so that will hopefully make it more efficient when I’m not tied to the computer which isn’t unpacked and set up yet.

So far 2018 has been productive- 1 display, 2 classes, 2 workshops, and 3 in progress projects that keep elbowing each other out of the way- but as they are all the same color maybe I should count them as one?

Rose and Gold Greek

Gold and Rose Greek-

A peplos fashioned from a vintage silk sari- something I have meant to do for a while but ended up being far more complicated than it should… this involved lots of cutting and piecing to get the borders where I wanted them and in appropriate locations for greek.

Worn depicting a goddess for this event thus the symbology…



Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Metallics

June 2017

Fabric: 100% silk (hand like organza) vintage silk sari in a rose color with gold and black block printing.

Pattern: draped on form

Year: 500 BCE

Notions: silk and gold thread

How historically accurate is it? 90% given accurate materials (albeit not saris in greece), machine sewn seams hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 8 hours Total

First worn: September 23rd for battlefield bardic scenario at Battle on the Bay

Total: $25 vintage silk sari & notions from stash


Historical inspiration images…

Figurine of Aphrodite playing with Eros, from Tanagra, late 4th century BC (terracotta) by Greek School, (4th century BC)

Copy of a Greek bronze statue of 375/374–360/359 B.C. by Kephisodotos

The sculptural type of a woman wearing a peplos becomes prominent during the second quarter of the fifth century B.C., especially in small bronzes. Contemporary works in terracotta on this scale are exceedingly rare. It is possible that this piece served as a model for the preparation of molds from which bronze representations would have been cast.

Ancient Greek statue of a woman with blue and gilt garment, fan and sun hat, from Tanagra, 325-300 BC

Traces of paint depicting embroidered patterns on the peplos of an Archaic kore

The willowy shape and the draping of the fabric on top of the maiden’s high, “melon” hairstyle are typically South Italian. The statuette was originally brightly painted.
3rd century BC (Hellenistic)

Greek terracotta statuette of a dancing maenad, 3rd century B.C. Made in Taranto. Metropolitan Museum of Art


WWI Shirtwaist Dress

WWI Shirtwaist Dress

The Great War brought austerity, simplicity, and practicality to fashion.  A simple shirtwaist dress like this could be worn as a workdress or uniform.  Many women’s uniforms were made at home from widely available patterns.  Variations in material, decoration, and fastenings were seen.  These pictures are my friend Bethany wearing the dress at the Centennial kickoff event- a bit big on her but we see ladies during the war wearing both fitted and large uniforms.  This one fits a little closer than the work smock pictured on the doughnut girl because an original nurse’s uniform was used as the pattern.  Being in a time period with machine stitching and top stitching made this a quick dress to make.


Historical Sew Monthly

WWI Shirtwaist Dress

The Challenge: Firsts & Lasts This was my first shirtwaist dress, copied from original nurse’s uniform but modified to match work smocks in tan with full front buttons.

January 2017

Fabric: Cotton/Linen light twill weave

Pattern: Copied from original WWI Nurse uniform

Year: 1917

Notions: cotton thread, metal buttons

How historically accurate is it? 100% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 30 hours Total

First worn: January 31st, 2016

Total: ~$10 fabric remnant, notions from stash

Historical inspiration images…



red-cross-unifrom closest to the original I copied for this pattern

red-cross-unifrom closest to the original I copied for this pattern

sa-in-france-during-the-war-1917 Notice work smock buttons all the way down the front

Notice work smock buttons all the way down the front



WWI Uniform dress- notice officer has jacket but the rest are shirtwaist dresses.- these are probably wool serge.

WWI Uniform dress- notice officer has jacket but the rest are shirtwaist dresses.- these are probably wool serge.

WWI era Corset

WWI Corset- I opted for the high bust for support but love the long line this corset creates!  This is the base for the WWI era clothing I will be making and wearing throughout the year as part of the Centennial commemoration.  This was the first wearing, without the garters (mostly because I forgot them that night) and under a skirt/blouse combo.  It also was not fully laced as I had to lace myself in and can only get so much leverage behind my back.

corset-back corset-front

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: Firsts & Lasts

January 2017

Fabric: 100% cotton brocade and cotton drill lining

Pattern: 1913 late Edwardian Corset from Truly Victorian

Year: 1913

Notions: cotton thread, steel busk, bones, eyelets, garters, cotton lace, silk floss, linen tape for lacing

How historically accurate is it? 95% given accurate materials, machine sewn with short stitch length and hand top stitched and finished

Hours to complete: 43 hours Total

First worn: January 31, 2017 for Centennial Kickoff event

Total: ~$40 bought busk, steels, and garters,  fabric remnants & notions from stash

First Wearing (dancing both ragtime and swing with some WWII folks- don’t recommend swing dance in a longline corset)

wwi-dance-2 wwi-dance-3 wwi-dance wwi-single

Construction images…



Historical inspiration images…

1915-1917 corset at the Met

1915-1917 corset at the Met

Corset - c. 1911-13 - by Au Royal Corset, Madrid, Spain

Corset – c. 1911-13 – by Au Royal Corset, Madrid, Spain

1915 Corset at the Met

1915 Corset at the Met